Tag: Pork

Salt Pork (Sidfläsk) and Onion Sauce…Classically Scandinavian Cuisine

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Some dishes are so simple and basic, they really don’t elicit the need for a recipe or a enthusiastic response from most. Yet that very simplicity, which some might disdain, is comfort for others. A simple man’s dish  can be regal and revered  for it’s pure minimalism. While in Stockholm, having lunch with friends in a swanky cafe off of Stureplan, I ordered the  lunch special. It was a basic hearty dish of fried salt pork served with boiled potatoes and a white creamy onion sauce.My friend rubbed her hands in glee in anticipation of this childhood favorite, and Certain Someone naturally leaned over to fork up a few of the tasty morsels. I knew this was a dish I had to replicate back home.

Growing up black, with a mother who cooked southern style, salt pork was normally reserved for greens or beans. I don’t think she ever fried it up for us to eat, although I know many do. As salt pork is cured and packed in salt , its essential to soak it overnight and even blanch it to lessen the saltiness. It’s poor mans food that cheap but adds a punch of flavor to any dish.Salt pork can be entirely fatty or lean with some meat. Its made from the pork belly, like bacon, yet cured in salt. Originally it was created as shipboard ration, much like the European cured cod in salt.

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Salt Pork with Onion Sauce

serves 2-3

  • 1 lb slab of salt pork( streaky with meat and fat)
  • oil or leaf lard for frying
  • small red skinned potatoes ( enough for 2-3) peeled
  • 1 stick butter
  • 1 1/2 white onions minced
  • 2 tablespoons flour
  • 1 1/2 cup of milk
  • white pepper
  • sea salt
  • *pinch of nutmeg optional
  1. Soak the salt pork overnight in water. Refrigerate, changing water periodically.
  2. Boil peeled potatoes in water with a pinch of salt until tender.
  3. Heat a pot with boiling water. Black salt pork for 1 minute to leech extra salt after soaking.
  4. Remove from water and cool.
  5. Slice salt pork .
  6. In a frying pan with oil or leaf lard, fry salt pork until crispy. Drain on paper towels and set aside.
  7. Check potatoes, drain , and toss lightly in butter when done. Cover until ready to use.
  8. In a frying pan melt 1 stick of butter.
  9. Add minced onion.
  10. Saute on med heat until onions are translucent .
  11. Season to taste with salt and white pepper.
  12. Add flour to butter and softened onions. Mix until you form a roux.
  13. Continue to cook for one minute to slightly brown the roux.
  14. Add milk and* nutmeg.
  15. Mix briskly to incorporate onions, roux and milk.
  16. Sauce will start to thicken.
  17. If sauce is too thick add more milk, adjust.
  18. Plate potatoes with sauce ladled over them. Top with a few slices of salt pork per person.
  19. Serve hot.

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Homemade Pork Scratchings aka Pork Rinds

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In the carnivore realm there are two groups. Those that eat pork and those that don’t. In our household we love the Swine. Sausages, bacon , chops, loins, roasts,etc.Need I say more? Pork really is a tastier and a more versatile meat.Religious reasons I get and respect.Even those restrictions were an early form of food safety. But,I hear a lot of people for various reasons profess why they don’t eat pork, is that it’s dirty. That excuse  is dated, period. Nowadays eating poultry, fish, and eggs can out you at more risk than eating pork. There are fewer cases of Trichinosis out there and reported than Salmonella or E Coli. I’m not here to convert but I’m just saying….

Not believing in waste, I had a whole large piece of pork skin left over from the belly used to makeChorizo. The perfect crispy skin has always eluded me. Close but not perfection. Then I came across some references to the famous English Chef Fergus Henderson, who is known for his nose to tail style of cooking. Nothing is wasted and respect is shown to animal  without waste. It seems his pork scratchings( pork rinds) are a huge deal and a superior recipe. A total of a five to six day process, the skin is lovingly salted for five days to confit and swathed in duck fat andconfited .Once tender and jelly like after the confit, the skin is then racked in the oven and puffs and bubbles to a beautiful golden brow, It really is the perfect recipe. Your next cocktail party, football game, or holiday gathering , offer up these nibbles and your swine eating guests will bow at your feet. You can purchase pork skin in most Latin markets, or save it from when you buy whole roasts.

I did make a little error with these nibbles. I didn’t soak the skin after salting. Fortunately I didn’t use loads of salt, so a nice cold beer washed it away. That’s my second salt accident this month.When doing the final baking , rather than keep the skin intact, cut it up into smaller pieces to aid crispiness, I find the smaller pieces puff more. Then you break it up even more when complete.

You know this isn’t  health food and should only be made on special occasions. But it is way better than deep frying the rinds in my opinion like the Mexican Chicarron,but its wickedly good. Enjoy!

I did feel like Hannibal Lecter while making this. Carefully tending to large swathes of skin. My refrigerator looked like a lab.So this recipe isn’t for the squeamish, if things like that bother you. You know, the type that likes their meat all neat and packaged in Styrofoam and wrapped in plastic. Kidding!

Be sure check out the Duo Dishes , who posted their own version of pork rinds this week too.

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Pork Scratchings

adapted by Fergus Henderson from Beyond Nose to Tail


 

 Ingredients

  • Pig’s skin  with a little fat on the underside
  • Kosher Salt or Sea Salt
  • Duck fat (about 1 cup or more to cover the skin)
  1. Spread a layer of sea salt on a glass , plastic or non reactive tray.
  2. Apply sea salt on top of the pork skin liberally( approx about 1-2 tbsp. Depending on size of skins.
  3. Cover salted skin and leave in  the refrigerator for five days.
  4. Remove skin and soak in cold water overnight for several hours or overnight.
  5. Dry skin and place on a lipped baking sheet.
  6. Rub duck fat on both sides of skin .
  7. Cover with foil.
  8. Bake  in a medium oven( about 220-225 F) for 2½ hrs.
  9. Take out to cool.
  10. At this point you can make sure fat solidifies over skin and keep covered with fat until ready to use at alater date in the fridge.
  11. Or…Place a rack on a lipped baking sheet, then lay your skin on top.
  12. Turn oven to approx 350-375 F and roast. Skin should  slightly puff up  and turn golden and crispy.
  13. Do not overly brown or burn
  14. Remove from the oven  and cool.
  15. Place the crispy skin on a board and  break it up with with a heavy knife.
  16. Serve

* skin can be chewy and tough in some parts so be careful with sensitive teeth or dental issues.

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Crispy Pata

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A few months ago Certain Someone and I dined at Sunda, a hip Pan Asian establishment In Chicago. As is usually the case, I ordered the best entree of a Crispy Pata ( Lechon). A pork shank roasted until crisp, skin and all and dipped into a garlicky vinegar sauce. Philippine in origin, It appealed  to the German pork lover Certain Someone was. He had no problem finishing off my dish,as it was very filling.

So one day shopping at my favorite wholesale  meat market, I saw fresh pork hocks in a bin alongside pig  ears, tails, kidneys and hearts. I struck gold as I never see fresh pork hocks in the supermarkets, only smoked, with little meat.I confess I smoked up the house making this at home.But it was worth it .In the Philippines they usually boil and then fry the shank. On the internet I found several oven based recipes that seemed equally successful and less messy. I would recommend perhaps trying this on an outdoor grill this summer. Its tasty and rich. I used the leftovers the next day and placed over warm Soba noodles tossed with the vinegar sauce. It was heavenly.Certain Someone was mad I used the leftover bits for my lunch, naturally.

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Crispy Pata ( Lechon)

  • Fresh Pork Hocks
    A few cloves of garlic( unpeeled) to taste
    Bay Leaf
    Black Peppercorns
    Salt
    *Fish Sauce (optional)
    Vinegar Sauce
    3 parts  White Vinegar to 1 part Soy Sauce
    Minced Garlic to taste
    In a large pot, cover the  Fresh Pork Hocks in cold water. Add Bay Leaf, Peppercorns, salt, garlic cloves, and fish sauce . Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and let simmer for approx 1.5  hours.
    Remove  the hocks from the water.

    On a lipped baking sheet , place a rack. Place the boiled hocks on the rack and roast at 450 F until the the skin starts to crisp and puff.Be sure you have proper ventilation in your kitchen. You will have to turn the hocks occasional to ensure it roasts crisp throughout. This may take about another 45 minutes or so.Remove once crisped to desired  doneness.
    Mix up in ingredients for Vinegar Sauce and serve with the Crispy Pata to dip.

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