Borscht…A Beautiful Soup for the Holidays

First let me preface this post with the statement that if you don’t like beets normally, you will love Borscht.

One thing that can said about me from birth, is that I have always sought out the new, different and loved to learn from others cultures. I could be never be one to fit into a  specific box . I have my mother to thank ,for nurturing  this curious spirit of mine. For some reason these days, I’m all into Russian food. If I cant travel, I visit through my kitchen. I even added to the final missing link to my Culinaria series, which was the Russian edition. A coworker saw me reading the Russian edition  and asked

“Why Russia?”

…and I replied “Why Not?”

to which he thought for a moment and said “Touche”

Admittedly , listening to my Russian co workers  has piqued my curiosity. Russian being used in the broadest terms,as each region has its own unique identity. The Polish co workers then pipe in with their versions of the same dish and we get into a whole discussion on recipes and traditions. This is what we do when bored, and I love it!

So lets talk about Borscht. The Ukrainians consider themselves the inventors of Borscht. This “land on the edge” with its main capital of Kiev. All the trade routes crossed this region and The Ukrainians have been under various rulers for centuries, until it was absorbed by the former Soviet Union. In 1991 the finally achieved their independence. The Ukraine can owe its rich culinary tradition to its lands that are known for its mushrooms, berries, grains, vegetables and other fruits. Even wines. Maybe their rich and varied diet contributes to  beauty of the Ukrainian people who seem to produce some of the worlds top models. Food for thought…

Now there are many variations for this beet flavored stew/soup Borscht. From totally vegetarian to more hearty like stew, like I made.  Originally Borscht was just a soup made from wild plants and oats. Beets evolved into the soup late on. The beauty of Borscht is that it can change seasonally with whats on hand. In conversations with my friends I find they like to add beef short ribs  to flavor the base and to add heartiness to the soup.  Potatoes, cabbage, carrots, tomatoes, mushrooms and even beet leaves or sorrel can be added. That’s the beauty of the soup. In Poland at Christmas barszcz , a thinner vegetarian Borscht is made  and served with dumplings called uszka. Borscht really celebrates natures bounty can really decrease waste. In fact it evolved as a way families saved vegetable scraps and  trimmings, and stored outside during the frozen winter, to make into soups later on. So think of all those veggies in your fridge that need to be put to use and make a borscht. Your family will thank you for it. Don’t forget to top it with the Sour Cream , that’s the best part many people believe.

I have techniques I use in soup making that may vary from traditional Borscht recipes.  I will give you a clear recipe but I wanted to explain my process and traditional processes. Whatever you do do , remember the beets are sauteed separate and should not be added until the final stage of cooking, We don’t want the beets to lose color and darken. We want to retain the bright red color. For my version I used beef shank because it was cheaper than short ribs, although not as much meat. It requires hours of cooking to make tender. I peeled chopped and diced my potatoes , carrots, golden beets, onions, and garlic and roated them first with my beef shanks to brown in dutch oven. Then I placed it stove top and added my liquids. I find roasting of veggies and meats coaxed the flavor out more rather than browning on the stove top. The ingredients can vary and be based on what you have.  For meat you can use pork, beef , chicken or lamb. Don’t worry about being exact. Cooking should be fun and improvisational, not rigid. Also note that borscht always tastes better the next day. But if you cant wait until then  wait for at least 40 minutes for flavors to merge before serving.

Borscht...A Beautiful Soup for the Holidays
 
Prep time
Cook time
Total time
 
A thick hearty soup from the Ukraine
Author:
Recipe type: Entree
Serves: 8
Ingredients
  • 1-2 lbs beef short ribs, shank , etc. You can use whatever meat you desire form pork, chicken or lamb.
  • 1 large onion
  • 4 carrots peeled and chopped fine.
  • 3-4 medium potatoes peeled and chopped.
  • 1-2 golden beets optional* ( had on hand)
  • 3-4 cloves garlic minced
  • a touch of vegetable or olive oil
  • ⅛ tsp Celery seed
  • salt and black pepper to taste
  • 1 small head of white cabbage shredded
  • 3 qts or more of beef stock ( can use bouillon and water)
  • 3-4 large red beets peeled julienned into strips
  • ½ cup chopped fatty bacon, guanciale or other fatty pork
  • 1 can tomato paste
  • Bay Leaf
  • 2 tablespoons of red wine vinegar
  • 1-2 tbsp sugar
  • Sour cream to garnish
  • Fresh Dill & Parsley to garnish
Instructions
  1. Preheat oven to 425.
  2. In a large Dutch Oven add the beef shanks, ribs, etc and the peeled and chopped potatoes, carrots, golden beets,onions, and garlic.
  3. Toss with a little oil , season with salt and pepper and roast for about 45 minutes to 1 hour until softened and browned.
  4. In a separate skillet , render fat a bit from the bacon or fatty pork product and the peeled and julliened red beets. Saute for a few minutes.
  5. Add the tomato paste to the beets. Continue to saute.
  6. Add the vinegar to the beets and mix well. Remove from heat and set aside.
  7. Remove the Ducth Oven form the oven and place on stove top.
  8. Add the 3 qts of stock or water and bouliion.
  9. Bring to a simmer on a low heat and adjust seasonings to taste. Now's the time to add more salt etc.
  10. Add cabbage, celery seed, bay leaf.
  11. Cover and simmer for 2-3 hours until beef is tender. At this point you may add more liquid if needed.
  12. For the last 10 -15 minutes of cooking add the red beets, tomato mixture to the soup base. Add sugar.Simmer uncovered .
  13. Adjust seasonings( maybe add more vinegar ,salt or pepper).
  14. Remove from heat after 15 minutes.
  15. Let sit for at least 45 minuted before serving.
  16. Garnish with fresh sour cream , dill and parsley.
Notes
Do not overcook the beets in the soup. Only add at the last stage and cook no longer than 15 minutes in the soup. You can adapt this recipe to incorporate may types of seasonal produce or using what ever meat you like on hand. You can also make it completely vegan by omitting the animal products and meat.

 

 

Pickled Pepquinos with Daikon and Carrots

What is Pepquino, you may ask? That’s what I thought as saw these tiny vegetables looking like micro watermelons. Freaks of nature or genetically engineered? Pepquinos are a native and ancient species  from South America and marketed and brought to world by the Dutch company Koppert Kress.

Looking like watermelon on the outside, they are green on in the inside and have a sour like cucumber taste. You can pop them in your mouth raw , or pickle them, as I did.I can even imagine a fantastic cucumber like martini.Use your foodie imagination. I wanted to play with sweet and sour with some acidity. Pepquinos Availability is from April to November .

I cant go throughout summer without canning or pickling something and I quickly went to work on the Pequinos. I had some Daikon Radish and rainbow hued carrots , which once in the hot brine gave the liquid a pinkish hue. I love my relish and have been eating it with sandwiches, cheeses, pates, etc. You can process the batch or just refrigerate immediately if you plan to serve and consume within the next few weeks. The Pepquinos will definitely be a conversation starter with your guests.

Pickled Pepquinos with Daikon and Carrots
 
Prep time
Cook time
Total time
 
A pickled relish with the micro fruit Pepquinos.
Author:
Recipe type: Appetiser
Ingredients
  • 8 oz Pepquinos
  • 4 rainbow hues carrots , peeled and sliced into rounds
  • 1 yellow onion sliced into rings
  • ½ of a large Daikon Radish, peeled and cut into strips
  • ⅓ cup Kosher Salt
  • Brine solution of 1 part sugar to 2 parts vinegar
  • 2 dried chili peppers per canning jar
  • 1 tablespoon mustard seeds
Instructions
  1. Prep your vegetables .
  2. Wash your Pepquinos.
  3. Peel and slice your carrots, onions and Daikon radish.
  4. In a bowl add your Pepquinos,onions, carrots, Daikon . Add Kosher salt and cover with cold water.Chill overnight or for at least 4 hours.
  5. Drain vegetables.
  6. In a sauce pan heat vinegar and sugar with mustard seeds and dried chilies.Heat until a boiling.
  7. Prep and sanitize your jars (in hot boiling water).
  8. Pack your vegetables in to the jars and put the hot brine over the vegetables. Slide the dried chilies into the jar and add the lids.
  9. From this point you can refrigerate to eat immediatlety or process in a water batch for about 7-10 minutes. Don't over-process as you want the vegetables to remain crisp.
Notes
You can either process in a hot water batch to put up or refrigerated to consume immediately.Lasts a few weeks refrigerated.

 

 

 

Apple Onion Jam Made with All Natural Sweetener Xyla

 

Xylitol….Sounds like a chemical doesn’t it? That’s what I thought and at first and ignored the request to review Xyla from Emerald Forest. Come to find out Xylitol is all natural, derived from fruits and vegetables, and is actually good for teeth. Imagine less cavities with this sweetener than from sugar! After two gum surgeries this year I am all over that fact! Xylitiol is popular in Europe and has been used extensively in chewing gum and toothpaste production for a while. But best of all  it has a low glycemic index and can be used just as you would sugar, part for part. Thereby, making it safe for diabetics.Baking with Xylitol is a bit trickier but can be done. Products may be dryer and wont caramelize or brown. So a baker may need to add more butter, liquid, xantham gum or lecithin.Also Xylitol doesn’t react with yeast, causing it to rise, when bread baking. It can , however be even be grounded up and used as powdered sugar.

So naturally canning season is coming around, and I would rather can than bake in this heat. I was curious how Xylitol would perform in a jam or jelly. I haven’t been having the best of luck with jams or jellies, and maybe this would be a complete waste. But its all about learning from your mistakes. Yet, this wasn’t a mistake and never have I had a thicker jam/jelly without using pectin . I guess the two apple cores I added helped along with the lemon juice. But I loved how the Xylitol liquefied and then boiled down to a thick consistency.  I had some onions and apples  and wanted a savory jam to use for sandwiches or appetizers. The result is a bold savory sweet flavor that would be awesome with duck, chicken,turkey, or pork based sandwiches or quesadillas  . What I love the most is that its fewer calories than sugar, yet still sweet. One pound of Xylitol  produced a small batch of 2 pints, you can multiply this recipe easily.

* Note :

After refrigeration with an open bottle, I’m noticing some crystallization and hardening. I still used it as a spread in my  hot sandwich and it was fine. So keep at room temp on shelf if unopened. If opened , expect for it to crystallize. But upon heat , etc, it should be fine.

Apple Onion Jam Made with All Natural Sweetener Xyla
 
Prep time
Cook time
Total time
 
A sweet and savory jam made with the low glycemic , but all natural Xylitol.
Author:
Recipe type: Jam, Condiment
Ingredients
  • 1 onion chopped fine
  • 2 apples chopped ( save cores to add)
  • 2-4 cloves garlic chopped
  • 1 lb Xylitol
  • 2 tablespoon mustard seeds
  • 4 cloves whole Allspice
  • Juice of half lemon
  • 2 tablespoons water
Instructions
  1. In a heavy bottomed pot, add chopped apples, cores, onion, and garlic.
  2. Add 1 lb Xylitol.
  3. Add water and lemon juice.
  4. Add mustard seeds and Allspice.
  5. Mix up .
  6. Heat on medium high until Xylitol starts to melt within the liquid and starts to boil.
  7. Reduce heat and simmer on low for approximately 45 min or until onions and apples are candied, translucent and liquid has been reduced.
  8. Remove apple cores.
  9. Remove from heat and process for 5 minutes in a water bath in sterilized jars and lids.
  10. If you don't process refrigerate and use within the next few weeks.
Notes
Small batch, makes two pints. Can be multiplied easily.

 

 

 

Pork Belly Buns or Bao…Dim Sum Treats

One of the favorite dining experiences of Certain Someone and I, is going to China Town on a Sunday and indulging in Dim Sum. The tasty assortment and nibbles are endless and satisfying. Another added bonus is that is doesn’t cost us a fortune.  I love any sort of steamed bun or bao and normally have purchased them frozen. I finally decided to make my own after finding some pork belly in my freezer. Brainstorming on what to do with my hunk of rich meat , I thought back to last December and a long weekend in New York City. Certain Someone had purchased tickets for his favorite band Rammstein, an industrial metal German band known for intense pyrotechnics. This was their first concert in the United States in 10 years  to test the waters. It was so good that they are now on tour in the US. Anyway, as I’m normally in charge of the food recommendations. I was dying to go to the famous Momofuku Noddle Bar. The hype over the years was huge and I wanted to see what all the fuss was about. They don’t take reservations there except for the fried chicken. So we taxied over and waited  in line for approx 30 minutes on a Friday night. If it was any longer Certain Someone would have walked. But he was a good sport and we waited for the surprisingly short duration. Finally two spaces opened up for us at the bar. Tight ,noisy , and nor very intimate. But I was there for the food. Our server /bartender was very hospitable to us and Certain Someone ordered a nice selection of items. Was it good? Yes. Was it an epiphany , not so much. Was it expensive for what you got, yes again, with all the drinks thrown in as well. Compared to the venues we have gone to in various Chinatowns,we were paying for the scene , more than the food. In the end , we are the types who prefer a more low key , non pretentious place that gives more value for the price. But I can say been there , done that. If the place wasn’t so loud, small and had better seating, then maybe I would view the whole experience differently. Its hard to enjoy a meal cramped up , elbow to elbow on a high chair at the bar, with your backs against the cold new York winter air.I do need to visit David Chang’s other venues .

So I decided to make my own buns for way less money. Be prepared to dedicate a better part of your day to these. Some aspects can be pre made , thereby making it an excellent appetizer for parties or summer cookouts coming up. The most intimidating piece of this for me was the bun/bao, as Chinese pastry has always mystified me. You can dress the buns up in a myriad of ways. I love various Asian influence like pickled vegetables and maybe some spice to offset the rich fattiness of the pork belly. If you don’t like pork, try roasted chicken or duck with the crispy skin left on. Shrimp or beef works too. I made quick pickle of julienned Daikon radish and carrots, sliced some cucumbers, green onion, and cilantro.  Add a slather of Hoisin and you are in for a treat.

I followed this recipe from Gourmet’s Diary of a Foodie , but made some changes in the dough as I didn’t have dried milk in my pantry. I substituted 2 tablespoons  heated whole milk to the 3/4 ( less 2 tablespoons ) of water. The dough turned out beautifully. If you need more flour or liquid, add it slowly until the dough forms a nice ball while kneading.

Next time I’m going to make my own brine with some aromatics like star anise and garlic, and peppercorns. Or I may just add them to my braising liquid for a more luxurious flavor.

For the quick pickle, I didn’t soak my vegetables in salt water overnight, as normal picking recipes call for. I just heated 1 part sugar to 1 part white vinegar, a start anise and dried Thai chili to a boil and plunged my vegetable in . Remove from heat immediately and let cool submerged in  the liquid. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Warning…These bao are quite filling and somewhat addictive. But I suspect the whole family will love them. Try various proteins as filling choices, and have yourself a little Bao party with all the fixings.

Roasted Honeyed Sweets

Here is a quick and  easy recipe to add to your holiday or just regular table as a side. A little back story…growing up I hated sweet potatoes. Candied or in  pie, I just couldn’t fall in love with them.I dreaded when holidays arrived and I  had to eat my obligatory spoonful. No matter who made them, I just didn’t like that orange sweet mush.Now, I love them. I love them most in their simplest form, roasted. So rather than dump a ton of brown sugar, butter, and marshmallows (shudder) on your sweets, next time try this. Honey is a natural healing sweetener that pairs perfectly with this root vegetable chock full of anti oxidants.

[print_this]

Roasted Honeyed Sweets

* I used  a raw honey which is  pure, healthier, and is more solid in form. I melted it slightly before use on the stove. Use either clarified runny or raw honey. The choice is yours.

Quantities can be adjusted for amount of servings.

  • Sweet Potatoes with skin , washed
  • Olive Oil to coat
  • Kosher Salt to taste
  • 1 tablespoon honey for every sweet potato used
  1. Preheat oven to 375 F
  2. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
  3. Cut sweet potatoes in wedges , with skin.
  4. Toss in olive oil generously to coat.
  5. Place on baking sheet.
  6. Sprinkle with Kosher Salt to taste.
  7. Roast  for 15 minutes until tender.
  8. Take honey( which has been pre melted if raw) and toss over sweet potatoes on baking sheet.
  9. Continue to roast for another 5 minutes or so.
  10. Serve hot.

[/print_this]