Category: Preserves and Canning

Chocolate Banana Cinnamon Infused Jam and How I Spent my Summer Vacation

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I must say this week has been so inspiring and recharging. Rather than take off for Europe or just chill at home doing nothing, I decided to finally to get off my ample derriere and take a continuing education class at French Pastry School. These courses are not cheap mind you and I never really thought it was possible for me to do this.But it is education and where there is a will there is a way.I will take another course in late August as well ,dedicated to Event /Wedding cakes. French Pastry attracts tout le monde as both professors and students. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself sitting next to a student whose family owns a bakery chain in South America or a housewife from Brazil. One student I heard flew in from Singapore for a weekend event at the school with Spanish Chefs Oriol Balaguer and Paco Torreblanca.French Pastry School is first class and we students get spoiled a lot. It would be so hard to condense what I learned a few posts. I plan to write more extensively for EbonyJet.com . In the meanwhile I will start saving my dollars for some more classes. Here is a lineup of future course offerings. I would highly recommend this to anyone. Well worth the experience and money.
My instructor Chef John Kraus was amazing. Its a gift to teach and connect with the students. He told us if a student isn’t getting it, its reflective of the teacher and how hard they tried to work with the student.Not only was his teaching method excellent but he was a great raconteur of stories about work, travel. food history, and his travels as he honed his craft. A fascinating man who has worked with the best of them.He got his first break with Marco Pierre White. Chef Kraus also believes in sharing recipes and info rather than withholding.You can read a recipe but its up to you as a chef to to put your stamp on it. And that’s whats makes your dish different from mine essentially.
Here is a jam I fell in love with. Of course my home version could use some work, but the ones we turned out in class was excellent. The key is using really ripe bananas that are black. Let them sit out for a few days in a covered container at room temp sliced before you start to make the jam. They will start to liquefy and get really going. I experimented at home and added a cinnamon stick and Banana Rum from our trip to the Bahamas. You can really play around with this. I wish we saw Banana Jams more in the US. It really is treat that can go on so many things.

Chocolate Banana Cinnamon Infused Jam
*adapted from French Pastry School by Coco Cooks
makes 6 half pint jars
1 1/2-2 lbs/ 800 grams bananas very ripe( black)
1 cup fresh orange juice/200 grams
1/2 cup dark chocolate/100 grams
3 1/2 – 4 cups sugar /700 grams
1 vanilla bean or 1/2 tsp extract
1 cinnamon stick
2 tbsp rum
In a heavy bottomed sauce pan combine sliced bananas, orange juice,sugar , vanilla( pod split open and scraped), and cinnamon stick. Cook until translucent(make it either lumpy or more refined). Add chocolate( break it up a bit and melt a bit in microwave).Remove from heat and cover and let rest overnight.
The following day bring to a boil. Jam should hit 65 Brix or for us home cooks until it forms like a raindrop on car rather than tar. Place in sterilized jars/lids, seal and turn over. Let rest and cool overnight.
Process according to your canner instructions.
* In class we learned you can process in a dishwasher. Just run it through the first wash cycle( not the complete one). Its an effective method method that has enough heat to seal the jams .

For a prinatble version click here.

Plum Cardamon Fruit Leather…Natures Candy

What is a grown , almost 40 year old woman with no children (other than her big baby Certain Someone) doing making fruit leather? Well, a number of reasons. The May issue of Gourmet has a strawberry fruit leather recipe I had my eye on . Then yesterdays CSA box yielded about a 1 1/2 lbs of each of black, and red plums, in addition to blackberries, and peaches! No way I can get through all that fruit, and I don’t feel like baking pies or cakes . So fruit leather it is. Think of it as another way to preserve summers bounty.I figured I can take it to work and resist the Candy Man “Big Money” who sits in front of me with his notorious stash of candy. It’s bad and everyone comes down in the building for their daily fix. He gets odd delight in it. Maybe he likes to see all the women go by, who knows. But we love him. And he keeps my orders moving and clients appeased. What appeals to me about fruit leather is that it is all natural. You can add sugar or not depending on the fruit and your taste levels. I used Agave Nectar and some Cardamon for some kick. I looked online and also used the Gourmet article as reference. Rather than add water to the fruit puree and cook down, as some suggest, I felt the plums had enough water in them .I kept the peel on to for texture. If using stone fruit be sure to pit them. A lot of people recommend removing the peel, but that’s up to you. And you don’t need a fancy dehydrator gadget. This can be done in your oven.

Coco’s Plum Cardamon Fruit Leather (adapted in part/technique from Gourmet Magazines May 2008 Strawberry Leather)
1 1/2 lbs black plums( about 14)
1/2 cup Agave Nectar

Wash and stone fruit. In a food processor or blender puree fruit. In a heavy bottomed pot add puree and Agave nectar and bring to a boil. Reduce and cook for about 10 minutes. Add Cardamon to taste. Using the Gourmet method from this point pour the mixture onto the Silpat. I have seen some recipes use microwave proof plastic wrap as well. Spread in an even layer. Place in a oven that’s heated at about 150 degrees to no more than 200 for 3 hours or until slightly sticky , but not sticking to fingers/solid. Very low temp(caution don’t leave unattended even though it is a low temp). Take out ,remove Silpat /liner , and let dry on a rack for several hours up to 24 until dry. Take a piece of parchment or plastic wrap and cover the leather with it. Then peel upwards to remove the leather from the Silpat. It should adhere to the parchment(See notes). Roll up and store in plastic bags. Stores for up to 1 month.
Some notes: Due to humidity and thickness make sure the fruit puree is evenly dries out and done in the oven.While it dried it became a little more so(did not have air on) I noticed my center was more gooey and put it back in for another hour or so. When I added the parchment to roll the center was still mushy. I flipped the Silpat and peeled off the leather onto the parchment paper. I scraped the gooey part off the Silpat with a dough scraper and spread over the ‘broken part’. The underside now exposed right side up on the parchment went back into the oven for another hour or so.
On a side note I just want to say first thanks for your opinions about the link issue. Made me feel way better! Your support means a lot to me. Also, guess what? It may not mean anything yet, but I will be starting to work on a ‘on call’ basis in a artisan caterers kitchen. I have known the chef for a few years through some part time restaurant work and followed him as a part time on call server to this particular caterer. Saturday morning I’m coming in to learn the kitchen and the ropes. Less pay than serving , but something I love to do! A little dream of mine without giving up the day job. It will be an experience learning and working off premise catering.

Daring Bakers Take on Danish Braid or Wienerbrod

It seems as if I have alternating success with the Daring Baker challenges. It was a miracle this month I even made it. I have been extremely busy with a trip to Sweden, work, and another trip to D.C, and just plain catching up.But I did manage to squeeze in time and make the challenge, if not to successfully.Kelly and her co host Ben decided this month on Danish Braid based The Secrets of Baking by Sherry Yard .Years ago as curious teenager I had actually made puff pastry. The version I made seemed different from this recipe. I don’t recall yeast and remember adding the adding the butter without mixing it with flour. It also seemed as if I folded it more. But that was years ago.Anyway I was torn between my feelings. Since this is quintessentially Scandinavian, I decided to use some Cloudberry Jam BH gave me with a semi sweetened Farmers Cheese.


I also made some smaller shaped versions with pistachio paste and raspberry jam.
Unfortunately my shaped didn’t hold when baked up.But the smell was delicious and I enjoyed a slice right out the oven.

Certain Someone tried some the next day. It was a little soggier. He commented that it was rather dry and the layers should have been thinner and flakier. “A true Wienerbrod is more flaky and buttery. So try again.” He was just being honest.I wonder if leaving out the juice and sticking to more traditional dough makes a difference.I didn’t find them that bad and but the batch in a freezer for consumption when I need a little sweet with my tea.

Please note I didn’t use the filling in the orginal recipe. We were given the options of changing the filling to be either sweet or savory. Be sure to check out the mouth watering creations of the numerous and international group of the Daring Bakers.

Sherry Yard The Secrets of Baking
DANISH DOUGH
Makes 2-1/2 pounds dough
IngredientsFor the dough (Detrempe) 1 ounce fresh yeast or 1 tablespoon active dry yeast1/2 cup whole milk1/3 cup sugarZest of 1 orange, finely grated3/4 teaspoon ground cardamom1-1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped2 large eggs, chilled1/4 cup fresh orange juice3-1/4 cups all-purpose flour1 teaspoon salt
For the butter block (Beurrage)1/2 pound (2 sticks) cold unsalted butter1/4 cup all-purpose flour
DOUGH
Combine yeast and milk in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and mix on low speed. Slowly add sugar, orange zest, cardamom, vanilla extract, vanilla seeds, eggs, and orange juice. Mix well. Change to the dough hook and add the salt with the flour, 1 cup at a time, increasing speed to medium as the flour is incorporated. Knead the dough for about 5 minutes, or until smooth. You may need to add a little more flour if it is sticky. Transfer dough to a lightly floured baking sheet and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.Without a standing mixer: Combine yeast and milk in a bowl with a hand mixer on low speed or a whisk. Add sugar, orange zest, cardamom, vanilla extract, vanilla seeds, eggs, and orange juice and mix well. Sift flour and salt on your working surface and make a fountain. Make sure that the “walls” of your fountain are thick and even. Pour the liquid in the middle of the fountain. With your fingertips, mix the liquid and the flour starting from the middle of the fountain, slowly working towards the edges. When the ingredients have been incorporated start kneading the dough with the heel of your hands until it becomes smooth and easy to work with, around 5 to 7 minutes. You might need to add more flour if the dough is sticky.
BUTTER BLOCK
1. Combine butter and flour in the bowl of a mixer fitted with a paddle attachment and beat on medium speed for 1 minute. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and the paddle and then beat for 1 minute more, or until smooth and lump free. Set aside at room temperature.2. After the detrempe has chilled 30 minutes, turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Roll the dough into a rectangle approximately 18 x 13 inches and ¼ inch thick. The dough may be sticky, so keep dusting it lightly with flour. Spread the butter evenly over the center and right thirds of the dough. Fold the left edge of the detrempe to the right, covering half of the butter. Fold the right third of the rectangle over the center third. The first turn has now been completed. Mark the dough by poking it with your finger to keep track of your turns, or use a sticky and keep a tally. Place the dough on a baking sheet, wrap it in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.3. Place the dough lengthwise on a floured work surface. The open ends should be to your right and left. Roll the dough into another approximately 13 x 18 inch, ¼-inch-thick rectangle. Again, fold the left third of the rectangle over the center third and the right third over the center third. No additional butter will be added as it is already in the dough. The second turn has now been completed. Refrigerate the dough for 30 minutes.4. Roll out, turn, and refrigerate the dough two more times, for a total of four single turns. Make sure you are keeping track of your turns. Refrigerate the dough after the final turn for at least 5 hours or overnight. The Danish dough is now ready to be used. If you will not be using the dough within 24 hours, freeze it. To do this, roll the dough out to about 1 inch in thickness, wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and freeze. Defrost the dough slowly in the refrigerator for easiest handling. Danish dough will keep in the freezer for up to 1 month.
APPLE FILLING
Makes enough for two braidsIngredients4 Fuji or other apples, peeled, cored, and cut into ¼-inch pieces1/2 cup sugar1 tsp. ground cinnamon1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped1/4 cup fresh lemon juice4 tablespoons unsalted butterToss all ingredients except butter in a large bowl. Melt the butter in a sauté pan over medium heat until slightly nutty in color, about 6 – 8 minutes. Then add the apple mixture and sauté until apples are softened and caramelized, 10 to 15 minutes. If you’ve chosen Fujis, the apples will be caramelized, but have still retained their shape. Pour the cooked apples onto a baking sheet to cool completely before forming the braid. (If making ahead, cool to room temperature, seal, and refrigerate.) They will cool faster when spread in a thin layer over the surface of the sheet. After they have cooled, the filling can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Left over filling can be used as an ice cream topping, for muffins, cheesecake, or other pastries.
DANISH BRAID
Makes enough for 2 large braidsIngredients 1 recipe Danish Dough (see below)2 cups apple filling, jam, or preserves (see below)For the egg wash: 1 large egg, plus 1 large egg yolk1. Line a baking sheet with a silicone mat or parchment paper. On a lightly floured surface, roll the Danish Dough into a 15 x 20-inch rectangle, ¼ inch thick. If the dough seems elastic and shrinks back when rolled, let it rest for a few minutes, then roll again. Place the dough on the baking sheet.2. Along one long side of the pastry make parallel, 5-inch-long cuts with a knife or rolling pastry wheel, each about 1 inch apart. Repeat on the opposite side, making sure to line up the cuts with those you’ve already made.3. Spoon the filling you’ve chosen to fill your braid down the center of the rectangle. Starting with the top and bottom “flaps”, fold the top flap down over the filling to cover. Next, fold the bottom “flap” up to cover filling. This helps keep the braid neat and helps to hold in the filling. Now begin folding the cut side strips of dough over the filling, alternating first left, then right, left, right, until finished. Trim any excess dough and tuck in the ends.Egg WashWhisk together the whole egg and yolk in a bowl and with a pastry brush, lightly coat the braid.Proofing and Baking1. Spray cooking oil (Pam…) onto a piece of plastic wrap, and place over the braid. Proof at room temperature or, if possible, in a controlled 90 degree F environment for about 2 hours, or until doubled in volume and light to the touch.2. Near the end of proofing, preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Position a rack in the center of the oven.3. Bake for 10 minutes, then rotate the pan so that the side of the braid previously in the back of the oven is now in the front. Lower the oven temperature to 350 degrees F, and bake about 15-20 minutes more, or until golden brown. Cool and serve the braid either still warm from the oven or at room temperature. The cooled braid can be wrapped airtight and stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 days, or freeze for 1 month.Good luck and remember, any questions you have about this post, or recipe should be addressed in this thread. Above all else, have fun. This is a completely lovely dough with a fragrance that is to swoon over. And when it’s baking? My oh my.

I’m Jammin


I’m obsessed with canning. I admit it. For the Putting Up Event I made the most unusual Watermelon Rind Preserves. I was rather surprised that most of my commenter’s had not heard of this specialty. But that’s whats blogging is for, to learn new things. This time I wanted to do something a little sweeter and more traditional. I was worried that I would need massive quantities to make fruit preserves. Actually you don’t need so much and its recommended you make small batches. I purchased about 8 apricots and a pound of cherries. I envisioned these two together in a yummy preserve. As I prepped and stoned the fruit I had the sudden inspiration to add a vanilla bean. A lot of the seeds got caught up in the foam but the vanilla flavor shined through. I added a tad of butter to decrease foaming but I still got some. Foaming , experts believe. adds to spoilage. Another thing you have to worry about is the pectin setting. I need to stock up on pectin! I processed this and found after 24 hours the jam didn’t set. The instructions on the pectin box said how you can redo the jam.The only thing wasted is the lids and bands.So I redid the batch to much better results.I’m wondering if I did add enough sugar. I ended up adding a cup more sugar than was previously used.The taste of the unset jam was fantastic!I was almost tempted to use it just as a fruit syrup. I’m just be going to be handing out these as gifts to friends and coworkers while keeping a few for us. I asked Certain Someone to give a jar of Watermelon rinds to his golf buddy and co worker. They had to call me to explain why it wasn’t pink and what it actually was.I’m sure these fruity preserves wont be met with confusion.

Apricot Cherry Preserves with Vanilla Bean

1 pond of cherries
1 1/2 pounds of apricots ( about 8 or so)
6 cups natural cane sugar *I ended adding another cut when redoing the batch.
1 vanilla bean
1/4 cup water
1 package of Pectin

Wash and stone fruit. Cut vanilla bean down the middle and scrape seeds. Add fruit and vanilla bean pulp with pod to heavy pan. Add sugar , water , and pectin. Bring to rolling boil as you stir. Scrape off any foam that rises. Take of heat and stir more. Laddle into sterilised jars, place lids, on , and process according to instructions. I used the pressure canner with a weight of 5 lbs and a process time of 10 minutes. Take out canner and let and set 24 hours. I f the jam doesnt set, redo as instructed on the package of pectin. If you choose to use no sugar or sugar substitutes use a pectin brand for less sugar.
Makes 8 half pints

Putting Up Event…Watermelon Rind Preserves

I think in my past life I was a Farmers wife or something. Or maybe my Blackberry loving self deep down inside yearns for simpler non Glamah-rous life. OK, I take that back.I can see myself as a Zsa Zsa Gabor(or was it Eva) type on Green Acres.Anyway the swell duo of Rosie and Pixie have come up with a fantastic event called Putting Up. They are calling on us to use our canning skills.

A long time ago my mother and I purchased a pressure cooker/canner. We had a blast trying to make Chow Chow and pickled okra and peppers.We managed to make tons of food and oddly never went back to it again. Each summer I vowed to do something. Jams were a particular interest.With this event I have seen a lot of excellent jams. So as I always walk to a different drummer, I decided to make another item my Mommy always waxed nostalgic on. Watermelon Rinds Preserves. I used to shudder when I heard of this.I had never tasted it. But economy and time dictated that I use what I have. My Fruit and Vegetable Box yielded 2 small seedless watermelons amongst other things to bountiful to mention here. There was no way Certain Someone and I would finish these organic treats. So I dug out my pressure canner and searched for the instruction book. I then took all the watermelon meat and placed it a Gallon bag to freeze. Now that’s the way I prefer to eat it! Plus would be awesome in martinis. Then I got into the long process. Not to long, but a lot of prep.

Why would anyone want to preserve Watermelon Rind? Well my research shows that this is Asian,Southern, and Polish specialty. You associate it with the Deep South. In the Depression , one looked for ways to use every bit of food you could. Rinds are edible and can be a tasty treat cooked down with spices and sugar.Asian cookery makes their own versions as well and just the not pickled rind but used fresh in stir frys , etc.I have also seen recipes from as far away as South Africa and Australia.Seems everyone is on to something.I read they are healthy too. I found the rind, once peeled of the green skin and pink flesh , took on characteristics of cucumber. Most of the recipes in the Internet are similar. I used a combo of recipes as a guide, and added a combo of both brown and white sugar.Next time I want try try more variations. I have seen recipes call for a little spice.I’m glad I forced myself to do this and you all will be seeing more preserves from this summer.If my mother was alive she would get a kick out these if I presented it to her in a gift basket for Mothers Day. Its not only economical but fun and novel. Maybe I need to rent a table at the Farmers Market? “Glamah Rinds Anyone? They’re so cheap darlings it’s chic! “
Glamah Rinds aka Watermelon Rind Preserves
Ingredients :
1 -2 lbs prepared watermelon rind * if you have more rind adjust to levels of sweetness and spice you prefer
1/2 cup salt
6 cup water
1 1/2 cup sugar (I combined brown and white sugars)
1 1/2 cup white vinegar
1 lemon sliced thin
1/2 tsp whole cloves * was thinking of using star anise next time.
1/2 tsp whole allspice
1 stick cinnamon
1 tsp of minced ginger
Method :
Prepare the watermelon rind, and remove any pink flesh and green skin. Cut the rind into pieces about 1 inch. Mix the salt and water in a large bowl, and add the rind. Let stand overnight. Drain thoroughly and rinse. Drain and rinse again. Place in a non reactive pot or kettle, cover with cold water, and cook, about 30 minutes, until the rind becomes tender and translucent, but still firm. Drain again. Place the sugar, vinegar, and lemon in the pot. Tie the spices in a cheesecloth bag and add to mixture. Bring to a boil, then cook 2 minutes. Add the rind, and cook, uncovered, over medium heat, for 15 minutes after it comes to a boil. Remove the rind with a slotted spoon and place in hot, sterilized jars. Boil the syrup 5 minutes longer, remove the spice bag, and pour the syrup over the rind till filled. Process in your canner according to your instructions. I used a pressure of 5 lbs and cooked for approx 10-15 in the pressure canner.
Seal at once. If a sweeter preserve is preferred, increase sugar to 2 cups. This made 4 half pints.
Serve with breads, ice creams, grilled chicken, etc.

Update! We have a winner of the the Tamale Open. Congratulations Megan . I sent you a email to claim your prize.