Musings on Rome

The city of Rome has always fascinated me. I remember my mother coming back from her honeymoon with my stepfather with fabulous clothes, clothes, cosmetics, and magazines she had purchased there. One day I would get there, I vowed. In my teens I was captivated by Princess Luciana Pignatelli’s vintage The Beautiful Peoples Beauty Book, full of musings on growing up and life in Rome, beauty secrets of La Dolce Vita, and diet advice ( from an glamorous Italian perspective). Even today the book is a good fun read, as I thumb through my well worn copy, picked up in garage sale long ago. The book provided even more fuel for my desire to go to Rome one day to see the Beautiful People. When I looked up my late great uncle Bob Curtis, after my mother’s death, I had found he longer lived in Rome, but in Vienna. I put visiting Rome on a back burner. Certain Someone had also had had a longstanding desire to go to Rome as well. When Bobs good friend Renate , informed the family of a memorial/ommagio for Bob in September, we knew we had to go.

What can I say that hasn’t been said about Rome? It’s amazing, fabulous, and really makes a person feel small and mortal. Like an ancient woman, people still flock to her and find beauty, wisdom. Naturally with any tourist destination there is a side of cheesiness that can be avoided. You walk and realize the thousands of years that have passed, and those who stood in the very spot. For a lover of history and art it’s a dream come true, but overwhelming at times. One would need many visits to get a handle of Rome.The old mixes with the modern way of life beautifully and amusingly. Its a common site to see a pack of “suits” on mopeds ,with cigarettes, at a traffic stop as they commute through the city for work. Luckily I had a full agenda with a little time for site seeing thrown in. I finally got to meet NYC Caribbean Raggaza for an upcoming interview, see old friends of my uncle Bob, meet new ones and family I hadn’t met before. I even got to meet the leading figures of Italian modern dance. The Ommagio was wonderful with students and colleagues of Bob, and their students giving outstanding performances in Afro dance, which my uncle brought to Rome decades before.

Certain Someone and I took full advantage of our time and made it count. Acting like unashamed tourists, we got on a 48 hour hop on , hop off bus tour to get acclimated to the city and really assess what we wanted to explore future. Rome is pretty compact and once we found our way, it was nothing to walk back to hotel while taking it all in.Who measures time and distance amongst such beauty? While not openly very religious, I loved seeing Certain Someone’s reaction and captivation in the Vatican. St. Peters leaves one breathless.

Unfortunately we didn’t get to the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel. I think our favorite church was an unassuming from the outside ,Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri, which we discovered in our final few hours in the city. It was one of the elderly Michelangelo’s last projects which incorporates modern day works of art within.

As this is food blog, I would be remiss not discuss the food. Oddly , while he food was good, we weren’t overwhelmed. Armed with suggestions from the high to low end, we just didn’t have that food revelation moment. The best bites were off the cuff while sampling salamis and other pork products in a shop , an odd pizza, and a few scoops of gelato here and there. One of the best, but overpriced dinners was on the Via Veneto at a place called the Café de Paris, ironically. I liked the place for the outstanding service (after dismal service at some other locations), excellent presentation, and the historical fact that La Dolce Vita was filmed on that very spot. It seems to had a notorious reputation until recently.Don’t let the fact that the menu was in Italian, English and Russian, and the cheesy guys racing their white Ferrari’s up and down the Via Veneto put you off. The food really stood up to my critical palate. I regret I didn’t get to dine on the famed Roman Jewish cuisine. We went to the traditional tratorria’s, to more high end restaurants, and a few tourist traps out of hunger and convenience in between. Feeling odd about my Rome dining experience, I asked friends why I was underwhelmed. The response was that while Roman food was good, it’s not the destination for great Italian food like Florence, or Tuscany. Having talked about my views with others, they voiced the same opinion. So I wasn’t to off in my views but I feel weird voicing it.

One question that baffled Certain and I was why most of the public toilets we encountered in Rome were seat less. I hadn’t seen this in any other place I traveled, and neither had he( we travel a lot). I found my answer here.

A week is Rome isn’t enough. I really need to come back and explore and eat more. Like a smart wise woman, Rome doesn’t reveal all she has on the first date.

Foraging and Meandering For Chanterelles In the Swedish Countryside

There is something spectacular about the rural countryside of Sweden. Autumn foliage is in a riot of color that makes the long drive on a narrow winding road all the more interesting. Certain Someone and I took it all in as we made our way to the house. At night you can stand outside and see the dazzling stars and galaxies light up the night sky. If you listen, it’s deadly silent, peaceful, still, and calm. Something this city girl is not at all used too. Nature in rural Sweden remains in its untouched state. Virginal, something that’s I had never really seen before. There is country and there is country. This was pretty rural. Certain Someone , another couple and I had decided to go mushroom hunting on my last day in Sweden. With all the talk of Chanterelles I was obsessed. Everyone said we should have some good ones around the house. But there was a fear of picking the wrong ones. If you were to walk around the forests near the house you would see endless varieties. I was spell bound in capturing them in photos. Fungi can be so beautiful, with the deadliest Toadstools leading the pack in nature’s beauty pageant.

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The group and I set out by car to drive more into towns direction. Parked cars by the side of the road indicated there were other foraging for  mushrooms in the forests. Some  dirt road paths lead to dead roundabout ends. So we continued. We finally found  a spot. A typical Swedish family with tow headed blond children, all in their Wellies , were seated and picking through the days harvest. Beautiful large baskets full of Chanterelles  were being  dusted  of by the ladies and sliced in half to check for snails, etc. They also had baskets of ruby red ligonberries. Like the Swedish Martha Stewart she was, she pointed off to the forests and the path and said we should find a lot. She made it seem so effortless. These were pros in mushroom picking game. It was like a scene from  the defunct Gourmet to see this family and their bounty from foraging in the Swedish countryside.Mushroom hunting is a favorite Swedish pastime and thankfully the  Swedish goverment has a Right to Public Access, so natures bounty is open to all.

We, armed with one paper Lidl shopping bag, and our men carrying big sticks, set forth. We saw lots of mushrooms along the way. Mostly inedible. It’s easy to see why some people could mistake some other varieties for the Chanterelle. Thankfully our friends had given us a field guide of mushrooms that had photos and warned which are the safest, the somewhat safe, and just plain deadly. Did you know some toxins don’t begin to take effect until several days later and then complete organ failure? It’s Russian Roulette in those woods!  The men played with their big sticks on the path like they were fencing, while the blush of red caught Britt- Helen’s and mine eyes. We may not have found the elusive Chanterelle, but there were ligonberries! Glorious ligonberries . Some so ripe they burst when you touched them. Since we only had one bag, I tried to pull branches of berries to keep them intact until I could sort at home. I figured I could throw the branches on the grounds and maybe Ligonberries would bloom around our rocks next year. I envied how prepared the Swedish family we saw earlier was with their baskets , Wellies and all. My feet were soaked through traipsing in the damp forests, with hidden streams. Finally at the point of about to give up ,walking back towards the car, we found a spot. Voila! Jackpot. In the dark damp woods the Funnel Chanterelles bloomed up from the ground. An untrained eye could mistake the tops for dead fallen autumn leaves. But their golden stems revealed they where what we came for! Chanterelles in abundance. Swedish Martha Stewart was right. We filled up out bags and went back to the house. On the way we stopped by the neighbor farmer to get some of his fresh eggs and Swedish honey. He told us  has four cocks and 500 hens and sells around 400-500 eggs a week. A chicken harem.

I wish I had photos of the dinner I made. Scan, a Swedish meat company had invited Anne, who invited me , to a Julboard event earlier  that week,and gave us a bag of meats which I brought to the house. Julboard is the big Christmas Swedish meal of hams traditionally. I will blog all about that later. I served  Roast Beef  and gravy from Scan, with Tagliatelle, cream, leeks, Funnel Chanterelles  and some Black trumpets , the others had brought from their in laws house, on our menu. In addition I made a pork roast with a ligonberry  rum glaze made from the scant half cup of berries I foraged. Not feeling 100 percent confident in a foreign simple kitchen, my guests and Certain Someone said it was fine. In the back of my mind I was praying we didn’t pick anything wrong, because these stories are rampant at this time of year. It’s weird for a glamorous city girl to really comprehend what’s its like to really pick the components for her own supper. It was and experience I will never forget. The next morning I left the house at dawn to drive  to the airport and have a last look at Swedish countryside through the  foggy mist. It was most beautiful sights you will ever see.

Here is a slide-show of what we saw. I really see beauty in mushrooms. Also here is a great online guide to identifying mushrooms in Scandinavia.

A Week of Stylish Swedish Dinners With Family and Friends

There is something about Stockholm. When we landed close to midnight last Sunday evening, I felt I was home. It’s been two years since my last visit to the Land Of The Midnight Sun. However its Autumn now and the days are getting colder and darkness falls earlier and earlier.

The colorful berries are still present but the beautiful assortment of Chanterelles and other mushrooms are in profusion. Dare I say it, I’m eating better here in Stockholm than in Rome. Fresh, clean simple flavors served in cutting edge Swedish design. While Swedes may long for more spice, I found the simplicity wholesome and fresh. 

Dagmar and her husband, of Cat In The Kitchen were gracious to invite Certain Someone and I to dinner in her gorgeous home in walking distance from the sea. Anne of Annes Food showed up with adorable Baby Titus and her husband. Can I say I’m love little Titus, and Dagmars house.  Titus is such a fun baby with a healthy refined appetitite. He stayed up with the big folks and then came to say goodnight in his Cinnamon bun pajamas. Look at Dagmar’s kitchen! Dagmars excellent Swedish Meal was outstanding and she claimed it was her first time serving such.You know we sometimes wonder  in the food blogger world if the person really has kitchen chops. Dagmar does. I hope to be able to come come back more frequenrtly to enjoy the girls company in the future. Here was Dagmars traditional Swedish menu. Did I also mention she effortslty pulled this off on a Monday night before jetting off for work in Coppenhagen? I’m grateful.

  •  SOS for starters (sill,ost,smör i.e. herring, västerbotten cheese, butter. Served with crisp bread and snaps).

  •  Chanterelle risotto

  •  Veal steak

  •  Dessert ofsmåländsk ostkaka(a Swedish cheese cake originally from Småland. Made with home made cheese. Served with different jams, berries and whipped cream).

Some of you may not know I have family in Sweden.My father’s closest brother lived here and had three sons. The brothers communicated throughout their lives sending photos and letters of their respective families and yet hadn’t seen each other for years. When my father died I felt a cosmic pull to seek them out and we meet some years ago. I hadn’t seen them since the last visit five years ago. My cousins are very busy and successful with their own families now and I was so happy everyone now lived in Stockholm proper. My Aunt is a whiz on the computer and has been following Coco Cooks and had kept up with me over the years. I was so surprised. She pulled out my late uncles extensive collection of photos from the brothers early days in Europe in the Sixties. The black and white photos of  Nigerian scions from a prominent family studying and playing in Europe were fantastic to see.All were to go into medicine or some branch in various countries around the world. I had never seen those photos and gained more insight into my illustrious family.Fortunately my Aunt  is a great host of information. I was happy to introduce Certain Someone to my fathers side at last. He and the cousins clicked immediately, spoke Swedish, and I could tell they would be good friends with similar interests. My cousins wife was there with thier beautiful daughter. Even though we are many hues and nationalities, the genetic resemblances were strong. Looking at everyone I felt  happy , centered, and content .  My aunt served another traditional Swedish Dinner for us:
  • A starter of salmon rolls, Chanterelle and Reindeer tarts, salad with shrimp
  • Jansson’s Temptation a  rich potato and anchovy dish
  • Meatballs and sausages
  • And an almond and berry cake with coffee.

*A note on the photos. Maybe I’m overwhelmed or finding it difficult to focus, but I’m not having a good relationship with the camera on this trip. I’m relying on Certain Someone to capture most moments. I hope these photos do the incredible meals some justice.

Art Wine Project at Three Peas Art Lounge

I love to promote my adopted home town Chicago. In fact I feel more an affinity for this city in which I lived in for a decade than my true Hometown , Washington D.C. It was love instantly and Chicago really is my type of town. Chicago leaves you wanting for nothing culturally and food and wine wise. So its with pleasure I want to introduce you to a favored spot of mine. Three Peas Art Lounge. You may remember Three Peas Art Lounge donated their space for Stir It 28. Small and cosy in South Loop, Three Peas mission is to “support artists ‘ in atypical formats”.

Last week Maya and Chrishon invited me to their Press event to launch the Art Wine Project. I love these young ladies as they boldly have combined a gallery and social spot in an innovation setting. Keeping the innovation going they have created the Art Project. Three Peas now has private label wines featuring specially commissioned art work  on their labels byHebru Branltey and Krista Franklin. There are two varietals , a  2010 Cabernet Sauvignon featuring Hebru Brantley’s work and a  2010 Riesling featuring Krista Franklin’s work. I sampled both and they are excellent. When you purchase a case you get a signed print of the artwork.Individual bottles will be available for retail as well. The Art Wine Project installation actually runs from August 7- September 30. So there is still time to see these artists great works.

Here’s a clip about Hebru who tells me he makes a mean Macaroni and Cheese. Anytime you want to stop over to Coco Cooks come on over Hebru!

I will be taking a tiny break for a few weeks. But I may drop in with a post or two if time permits. Thanks for reading.

Various Pickled Peppers and Scuppernong Fail… Ideas for Meatless Monday

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Food Blogs are full of culinary success stories. Few of us own up to our failures. As you know I’m on a canning kick this summer,but have failed miserably with my confitures. Now my pickles have been exceptional! No jam or jelly I have attempted this year has set properly. Yes I used pectin and still fail. I don’t know about you but the thought of remaking and reprocessing doesn’t appeal to me at all. A peach brown sugar /balsamic jam turned into a lovely glaze for pork and chicken. So not a complete fail. I read one high brow blogger in her air of superiority claim

Pectin was for the timid…

Well color me timid, because if it doesn’t work with pectin, its not going to work for me without pectin. And some fruits need that Pectin push more so than others due to natures genetic makeup.

I find my inspiration to blog from the grocery aisles , travels,dining out, and markets. I saw these ugly yet beautiful Scuppernongs in the new market around the corner. I have always been fascinated with name Scuppernong. It resounds in my mind and I can’t place the origin. Scuppernong are a form of muscadine that’s prevalent in the Southern states, particularly North Carolina. Wines and jellies are common culinary applications . Scuppernongs have thick skins and seeds, but yield plenty of juice. After mashing , cooking , and straining, my beautiful golden jelly did not set. They still sit sealed , as I wonder what to do with them. Perhaps a pate fruit? I hate waste.

I have had some success over the past month. They are proving popular as I give them away to friends.

I love pickled onions. And I love heat. Playing around with various peppers I came up with the this great pickle to use atop sandwiches or serve up with greens. Use your imagination.

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Pickled Onions and Peppers

* I’m not exact giving measurements , as that would depend on your batch. But this roughly makes 6 pint jars. Vary your peppers according to taste and heat sensitivity.

  • 2 large red onions, sliced
  • 2 Habenero Peppers
  • 6-7 Serrano
  • 2 Cubannelle or other sweet pepper
  • 2-3 whole all spice
  • 1 teaspoon hot mustard seed
  • 4 cloves fresh garlic sliced into slivers
  • 1/4 cup Coarse Kosher Salt
  • White Vinegar
  1. Slice your peppers. Leave the seeds in the Serranos, but seed your Cubanelles and Habenerros.
  2. In a lidded food grade container, place your sliced onions, and peppers.
  3. Cover with salt and add water to cover.
  4. Let soak overnight in the refridgerator.
  5. Drain salt water off the onions and peppers.
  6. Sterilize jars and lids.
  7. Heat White Vinegar and all spice to a boil.
  8. Pack the onions and peppers tightly with some garlic slivers for each jar.
  9. Pour hot vinegar solution over the vegetables leaving slight head space.
  10. Cap and Seal.
  11. Process for 10 minutes in a water bath.
  12. Let flavors settle in jar for at least 2 days .

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This recipe follows the same principle as above. I was walking with my friend Beth last week at the Logan Square Market and knew I had to pickle these babies. I added fresh basil and local Wisconsin garlic to the mix. Pickled whole, they will be beautiful on and Antipasti or relish tray for the heat lover.

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Pickled Michigan Cherry Pepper Poppers

* makes 4 pint jars

  • 1 pint/punnet of pepper poppers or cherry peppers.
  • White Vinegar to cover
  • 1/4 cup Kosher Salt
  • 2 tablespoons sugar
  • Fresh Basil Leaves
  • Dried Italian herbs
  • 2-3 cloves whole garlic
  1. Stem and soak whole pepper with seeds intact in salt and water solution.They may float so you can weight down with plate. Soak for 4-6 hours.
  2. Drain.
  3. Sterilize jars and lids
  4. Heat Vinegar , sugar, and dried herbs to a rolling boil.
  5. Pack whole peppers, basil, and garlic in jars tightly. They may crush a bit and that’s OK.
  6. Cap and seal.
  7. Process in water bath for 10 minutes.
  8. Let set for 2 days in the jar.

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I suggest you consider these pickled vegetables to jazz up your Meatless Monday Fare. Think Falafel sandwiches!