Category: Food history

Tasting Rome’s Coda alla Vaccinara ( Braised Oxtail)

Coda Alla Vaccinara with spincah gnocchi

I’m going to be brutally honest. A lot of cookbooks are not impressing me these days. They are tritely styled , photographed  and promoted. I like a cookbook with real chops, with substance. I want to be inspired and learn a new twist or turn. I want a cookbook that tells a story and really has a soul. Tasting Rome came along and warmed up some inspiration inside. OK, so I’m Facebook friends with Kristina Gil, and wanted to support her work, but it’s something more. When CS and I went to Rome a few years back, this was the food I was looking for. I was told  by my  friend, that in Italy, Florence and Tuscany beat out Rome culinary wise , but I knew there was layer of old Rome that had amazing food. I had brief glimpses of it here and there, like  that famous food from the old Jewish ghetto quarter that I enjoyed in a New York City restaurant around Broadway.

Tasting RomeAs I flipped through the book I fell upon two recipes I knew I had to try. Both were a longer process, which I love, and involved oxtail. I drove to my favorite Korean store here in Chicago because they really have the best quality and price of oxtails from what I’ve seen. Ones with lots of meat. Oxtail has to be my favorite offal  and the dish I’m sharing with you is what you call  a Quinto Quarto dish, the “fifth quarter” of the animal, the offal. The first quarter of the animal was sold to the Nobility, the second to Clergy, the third to the Bourgeoisie, and the fourth to the military’s soldiers. The fifth quarter was all that remained for those less fortunate, the others.

It was suggested one eat these oxtails with your hands, like the modern day Italian American style gravy made with neck bones or short ribs. I knew CS would want some hearty pasta with it, so I made some spinach gnocchi with leftover roasted potatoes .

Spincach gnocchi prep

I loved the addition of a curious mix of pine nuts and raisins added at the end. I wondered if that was the Jewish influence on some Roman cuisine? The Coda alla Vaccinara  was outstanding and tastes even better the next day.

Braised oxtail in pot

A few things. The  recipe calls for salting the meat with kosher salt a day before. I confess I overlooked that and skipped it. It still turned out great. I also toasted my pine nuts in a dry skillet , as I would advise to always do, because it brings out the flavors and oils on product that may have been sitting on shelves. I freeze my pine nuts to preserve the quality and prevent them from going off.  I also did not use celery as CS hates the vegetable.  It’s something I have to sneak in when he’s not looking . I did ramp up the garlic factor more than what the recipe called for , because that’s my style. That’s the beauty of the dish. You can really add your own spin to this.

The  use of cocoa powder in the end transforms the tomato beefy sauce to the extraordinary. I’ve used cocoa before in savory cooking and it’s always a great little surprise ingredient.

I hope you enjoy this. This recipe just keeps giving and giving. I used some of the sauce , which turns into a rich gelatinous tomato beef stock to make a risotto type dish with barley and lentils . Nothing will go to waste to here. The braised oxtail also freezes very well.

This recipe is reprinted from Tasting Rome  Fresh Flavors & Forgotten Recipes From an Ancient City, by Katie Parla and Kristina Gill. Clarkson  Potter Publishers New York

Tasting Rome's Coda alla Vaccinara ( Braised Oxtail)
 
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This recipe is reprinted from Tasting Rome Fresh Flavors & Forgotten Recipes From an Ancient City by Katie Parla and Kristina Gill. Clarkson Potter Publishers New York
Author:
Recipe type: Entree
Cuisine: Roman
Serves: 4-6
Ingredients
  • 2½ oz lardo (cured fatback) or 3 tablespoons olive oil
  • 3½ lbs oxtail, cut into 3 inch segments
  • 1 yellow onion
  • 1 garlic clove
  • 5-6 whole cloves
  • 2 tablespoons tomato paste
  • 1 cup red wine
  • 1 28 oz can whole peeled tomatoes
  • 6 cups beef broth
  • 2 celery stalks cut into 3 inch pieces
  • ¼ cup raisins
  • ¼ cup pine nuts
  • 1 tablespoon Cacao or unsweetened cocoa powder
Instructions
  1. Render the lardo in a large pot over medium -high heat , or heat olive oil until its shimmering.
  2. Add the oxtail segments and cook until browned all over, then remove from the pot and set aside.
  3. Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the onion, garlic, and cloves.
  4. Cook until the onion is translucent and the garlic has just turned golden, about 10 minutes.
  5. Add the tomato paste and cook until it turned a deep brick red, about 5 minutes.
  6. Add the wine, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan, and cook until the alcohol aroma dissipates, about a minute, then add the tomatoes.
  7. Return the meat to the pot and cover three-quarters of the way with the beef broth.
  8. Cover and cook until the meat is just falling off the bone, 5-6 hours, adding more broth if the sauce reduced too much.
  9. Toward the end of cooking, add the celery, raisins, pine nuts, and cacao, mixing well. Simmer for 20-30 minutes more.
  10. Turn off the heat and allow the oxtail to rest for at least 30 minutes., ideally overnight, in the refrigerator. Serve on its own. Use any leftover sauce to dress Gnocchi di Patate.
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Pillsbury Crescent Rockefeller… Ideas for Holiday Entertaining

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Certain Someone and I love Oysters Rockefeller. It’s one our favorite steakhouse appetizers. I love the elegance and refinement of bubbly oysters baked in their shells on a salt bed with spinach, a splash of Pernod, butter, cheese and garlic. The origins of the original dish are clouded in a veil of secrecy. It was created at the famous Antoine’s in New Orleans and named in honor of the richest man in land, John D Rockefeller because the secret ingredients were so rich. Many have tried to replicate it, but no one has, as the original recipe is a secret. Some say there is no spinach, while others say watercress and spinach. All we do know is the sauce is a blend of green  produce and the chefs at Antoine’s insist there is no spinach. Most versions I have sampled have spinach and it works all right for me and is easily attainable for the average home cook. One day I hope to have the real deal.`An anise flavored spirit like Pernod is optional, but I would highly urge you to use , as it pairs wonderfully with shellfish.

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Oysters Rockefeller has always been a special treat when dining out, or for a special occasion, like the holidays. Here I take a classic variation of Oysters Rockefeller and take out the fuss of shucking and shells, by using Pillsbury Crescent Rolls as a bed for luscious oysters and tasty stuffing. This will make a wonderful addition to holiday table.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pillsbury Crescent Rockefeller
 
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A variation of the classic Oysters Rockefeller
Author:
Recipe type: Appetizer
Cuisine: Seafood
Ingredients
  • 1 package Pillsbury® Crescent Butterflake 8ct
  • 4 tablespoons butter salted
  • 2 tablespoons minced shallots
  • 2 cloves garlic minced
  • 3/ 4 cup Italian flat leaf parsley chopped
  • ¾ cup fresh spinach
  • ⅛ teaspoon crushed fennel seeds
  • ⅛ teaspoon celery seeds
  • Kosher Salt to taste
  • Fresh Ground Black Pepper to taste
  • ¼ cup shredded Parmesan plus an additional ¼ for topping
  • ¼ cup Panko bread crumbs
  • 1 tablespoon Pernod
  • 1 small approximately 8 oz jar of fresh shucked pasteurized oysters
  • Non stick spray
Instructions
  1. Preheat oven to 400 F.
  2. In a large skillet, melt the butter. Add the minced shallots, garlic and soften for 1 minute.
  3. Add the chopped parsley, spinach, kosher salt, pepper, fennel seed, and celery seed. Cook and stir until spinach and parsley have just wilted. This will take only about 2-3 minutes. Do not overcook.
  4. Remove from heat.
  5. In a glass bowl, add the spinach mixture, ¼ of the parmesan cheese, Pernod, and the Panko bread crumbs.
  6. Pulse until smooth with an immersion blender. You may also use a food processor with this process.
  7. Adjust salt and pepper to taste.
  8. Set aside.
  9. On a clean surface, unroll crescent rolls.
  10. Spray a 12 cup muffin tin with non stick spray.
  11. Using two serving spoons take a triangle of dough and fold to fit into spoon curve. Add some parmesan on both sides and press spoons together to form.
  12. With each dough shell pressed and molded, lay at an angel in the muffin tin. You can continue to press edges together with fingers. This is your crescent dough shell.
  13. Add a oyster to each “crescent dough shell”.
  14. Add a generous spoonful of spinach mixture to each oyster on crescent dough shell.
  15. Top with more shredded parmesan cheese.
  16. Place in oven and reduce heat to 375 F after 2 minutes.
  17. Bake for 8 minutes until the dough is very golden and the oysters start to bubble.
  18. Remove from oven.
  19. Carefully remove each Crescent Rockefeller from muffin tin and place on a baking sheet with lined with parchment or a silpat.
  20. Place back in oven for an additional few minutes to crisp up the edges and underside of the dough base.
  21. Serve with lemon wedges immediately.
Notes
There may be some additional filling or oysters. The recipe can be easily increased
Pernod is traditional is Oysters Rockefeller and works well with oysters. It can be omitted, but will alter the traditional taste. Other anise flavored spirits can used as an substitution.
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Disclosure

*I have a received compensation from General Mills and my opinions are my own.

Classic Stracciatella for a Beautiful Spring Day

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Certain Someone is a simple man in his dessert tastes. So naturally the divine duo of a rich vanilla based custard , with a semi sweet chocolate  ribbon stream  stracciato ( torn apart) while churning, is bound to be a favorite.  I decided to serve this up for the Easter holiday following a simple fresh slow grilled ham , pan fried leeks and potatoes, and a pea and carrot medley. Even stuffed , Certain Someone made room for two servings of ice cream.

I used to think Certain Someone would be a bit pretentious asking for Stracciatella in American Ice Cream parlors.It’s the European in him of course. But it’s more than differentiating between the naive assumption of  thinking this is something akin to the chunky American Chocolate Chip ice cream. Stracciatella was invented not to long ago, in 1962 by Enrico Panattoni at La Marianna, in the picturesque city of Bergamo in Northern Italy, not far from Milano.It’s based on the Italian egg drop soup of the same name, where beaten eggs are added to a hot broth. The chocolate is more interspersed into the ice cream and broken up into little bits, creating a alternating smooth and creamy yet crunchy sensation on the tongue. Stracciatella definitely has more finesse than the good ole chocolate chip from the USA.

You can find the recipe here. This was adapted from the renown David Lebovitz, who most definitely knows a thing or two about ice cream.

 

Borscht…A Beautiful Soup for the Holidays

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First let me preface this post with the statement that if you don’t like beets normally, you will love Borscht.

One thing that can said about me from birth, is that I have always sought out the new, different and loved to learn from others cultures. I could be never be one to fit into a  specific box . I have my mother to thank ,for nurturing  this curious spirit of mine. For some reason these days, I’m all into Russian food. If I cant travel, I visit through my kitchen. I even added to the final missing link to my Culinaria series, which was the Russian edition. A coworker saw me reading the Russian edition  and asked

“Why Russia?”

…and I replied “Why Not?”

to which he thought for a moment and said “Touche”

Admittedly , listening to my Russian co workers  has piqued my curiosity. Russian being used in the broadest terms,as each region has its own unique identity. The Polish co workers then pipe in with their versions of the same dish and we get into a whole discussion on recipes and traditions. This is what we do when bored, and I love it!

So lets talk about Borscht. The Ukrainians consider themselves the inventors of Borscht. This “land on the edge” with its main capital of Kiev. All the trade routes crossed this region and The Ukrainians have been under various rulers for centuries, until it was absorbed by the former Soviet Union. In 1991 the finally achieved their independence. The Ukraine can owe its rich culinary tradition to its lands that are known for its mushrooms, berries, grains, vegetables and other fruits. Even wines. Maybe their rich and varied diet contributes to  beauty of the Ukrainian people who seem to produce some of the worlds top models. Food for thought…

Now there are many variations for this beet flavored stew/soup Borscht. From totally vegetarian to more hearty like stew, like I made.  Originally Borscht was just a soup made from wild plants and oats. Beets evolved into the soup late on. The beauty of Borscht is that it can change seasonally with whats on hand. In conversations with my friends I find they like to add beef short ribs  to flavor the base and to add heartiness to the soup.  Potatoes, cabbage, carrots, tomatoes, mushrooms and even beet leaves or sorrel can be added. That’s the beauty of the soup. In Poland at Christmas barszcz , a thinner vegetarian Borscht is made  and served with dumplings called uszka. Borscht really celebrates natures bounty can really decrease waste. In fact it evolved as a way families saved vegetable scraps and  trimmings, and stored outside during the frozen winter, to make into soups later on. So think of all those veggies in your fridge that need to be put to use and make a borscht. Your family will thank you for it. Don’t forget to top it with the Sour Cream , that’s the best part many people believe.

I have techniques I use in soup making that may vary from traditional Borscht recipes.  I will give you a clear recipe but I wanted to explain my process and traditional processes. Whatever you do do , remember the beets are sauteed separate and should not be added until the final stage of cooking, We don’t want the beets to lose color and darken. We want to retain the bright red color. For my version I used beef shank because it was cheaper than short ribs, although not as much meat. It requires hours of cooking to make tender. I peeled chopped and diced my potatoes , carrots, golden beets, onions, and garlic and roated them first with my beef shanks to brown in dutch oven. Then I placed it stove top and added my liquids. I find roasting of veggies and meats coaxed the flavor out more rather than browning on the stove top. The ingredients can vary and be based on what you have.  For meat you can use pork, beef , chicken or lamb. Don’t worry about being exact. Cooking should be fun and improvisational, not rigid. Also note that borscht always tastes better the next day. But if you cant wait until then  wait for at least 40 minutes for flavors to merge before serving.

Borscht...A Beautiful Soup for the Holidays
 
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A thick hearty soup from the Ukraine
Author:
Recipe type: Entree
Serves: 8
Ingredients
  • 1-2 lbs beef short ribs, shank , etc. You can use whatever meat you desire form pork, chicken or lamb.
  • 1 large onion
  • 4 carrots peeled and chopped fine.
  • 3-4 medium potatoes peeled and chopped.
  • 1-2 golden beets optional* ( had on hand)
  • 3-4 cloves garlic minced
  • a touch of vegetable or olive oil
  • ⅛ tsp Celery seed
  • salt and black pepper to taste
  • 1 small head of white cabbage shredded
  • 3 qts or more of beef stock ( can use bouillon and water)
  • 3-4 large red beets peeled julienned into strips
  • ½ cup chopped fatty bacon, guanciale or other fatty pork
  • 1 can tomato paste
  • Bay Leaf
  • 2 tablespoons of red wine vinegar
  • 1-2 tbsp sugar
  • Sour cream to garnish
  • Fresh Dill & Parsley to garnish
Instructions
  1. Preheat oven to 425.
  2. In a large Dutch Oven add the beef shanks, ribs, etc and the peeled and chopped potatoes, carrots, golden beets,onions, and garlic.
  3. Toss with a little oil , season with salt and pepper and roast for about 45 minutes to 1 hour until softened and browned.
  4. In a separate skillet , render fat a bit from the bacon or fatty pork product and the peeled and julliened red beets. Saute for a few minutes.
  5. Add the tomato paste to the beets. Continue to saute.
  6. Add the vinegar to the beets and mix well. Remove from heat and set aside.
  7. Remove the Ducth Oven form the oven and place on stove top.
  8. Add the 3 qts of stock or water and bouliion.
  9. Bring to a simmer on a low heat and adjust seasonings to taste. Now's the time to add more salt etc.
  10. Add cabbage, celery seed, bay leaf.
  11. Cover and simmer for 2-3 hours until beef is tender. At this point you may add more liquid if needed.
  12. For the last 10 -15 minutes of cooking add the red beets, tomato mixture to the soup base. Add sugar.Simmer uncovered .
  13. Adjust seasonings( maybe add more vinegar ,salt or pepper).
  14. Remove from heat after 15 minutes.
  15. Let sit for at least 45 minuted before serving.
  16. Garnish with fresh sour cream , dill and parsley.
Notes
Do not overcook the beets in the soup. Only add at the last stage and cook no longer than 15 minutes in the soup. You can adapt this recipe to incorporate may types of seasonal produce or using what ever meat you like on hand. You can also make it completely vegan by omitting the animal products and meat.
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Marx Foods Iron Foodie 2010… And A Local Event for Chicago Sears Chef Challenge

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Iron Foodie 2010 | Here's Why that will be me:
MarxFoods.com -- Fine Bulk Foods The Foodie BlogRoll

Those that know me well, know I’m totally am not into whole popularity contests I see going on the food blog world.So many contests lately are based on who can rustle up the most votes rather than actual merit. There I said it and but it’s really a pet peeve of mine. However there are some challenges and contests that genuinely appeal to me , and that I would want to do just for the pure joy and creative outlet it provides. When I saw this email announcement from the Foodie Blogroll for an Iron Foodie Contest with Marx Foods, I said I so want to do this! So here is Step One, which is to answer these questions:

  • Why do you want to compete in this challenge?

I believe I answered this above. But an Iron Foodie Challenge from Marx Foods is right up my alley. I have entered several Marx contests before and love their offerings of premium meats, poultry, and pasta. It’s been a while since I did anything with them but this challenge is calling my name. Iron Chef with Marx Ingredients. Oh yes! I have the creativity for this one. Bring it on.

  • Limitations of time/space notwithstanding, whose kitchen would you like to spend the day in & why? Julia Child, Thomas Keller, Ferran Adria, James Beard, Marie-Antoine Careme, or The Swedish Chef?

Marie-Antoine Careme, bien sur! I love history and even more so food history. That’s what sets me apart from the average blogger, in that I know who he is. Check out my peach souffle I made for his Birthday. I can see my myself time travelling to work with the first Celebrity Chef who cooked for kings and heads of state. To toil in the kitchens with him and construct elaborate piece montees, souffles and the vol au vents which he invented by the way. Of course as a time traveller I would know he would meet an early end from all that carbon monoxide he inhaled in those non ventilated  ancient kitchens. But of the palaces we would see and and the education I would get. Yes that’s who I would want to work with for one imaginary day. I would probably have to disguise myself as a man, but a girls got to do what she’s got to do.

  • What morsel are you most likely to swipe from family & friends’ plates when they aren’t looking?

The olives. They should never go to waste. And bits of crispy skin.

  • Sum your childhood up in one meal.

A seafood feast of lobsters and Dungenesee crabs. I was very spoiled and my mother encouraged and indulged my tastes.

  • The one mainstream food you can’t stand? 

Peanut Butter repulses me. I get sick just smelling it.

So step one is completed. I do hope I get chosen among the lucky 25 bloggers to compete.

In other food news….

If you are in Chicago this week,you should check out the Sears Chef Challenge  Grand Championship  on November 4th. Along with the competition,  a canned food drive benefiting the Chicago Anti-Hunger Federation will also take place during the Sears Chef Challenge Grand Championship. They are also encouraging attendees donate products when they arrived at the Kenmore Live Studio. Here are the details:

Chicago’s own Le Cordon Bleu Chef Mark Maassen will be competing to win an additional $10,000 to donate to a local Chicago food pantry charity for an overall donation of $20,000, as well as a full kitchen renovation from Sears. Maassen will face New York-based Chef Alex Dino on Nov. 4 for the Championship round of the Sears Chef Challenge after defeating 22 other chefs in previous rounds of the Sears Chef Challenge competition.

The competition is free to the public and attendees will be able to view the cook-off as well as experience and taste the food. In addition, those who will not be able to attend the event will still be able to view it by streaming the competition online at www.SearsChefChallenge.com. 

 Kenmore Live Studio
678 North Wells (Huron & Wells)
Chicago, IL 60654
312.265.0871

 

And last but not least,your chance to  enter Black Atlas’ contest to meet Marcus Samuelsson and attend the Red Rooster opening is ending soon.