Category: Fish

Salad Nicoise in Belgian Endive Cups

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In Chicago these days, it feel as if summer is here. My favorite things in summer are the lake, a chilled rose, gelato ,cold beer,and amazing salads. One of my favorite salads when I lived in Paris was a Salad Nicoise. I remember on sunny days, I would order one with friends at a sidewalk cafe near school and  watch the world go by, as I munched on crisp vegetables and salty briny anchovies, olives, and capers. Lately I’ve been toying with an idea in my head. Making a micro Salad Nicoise as a small plate starter or appetizer. Rather than using lettuce, I made” boats” of Belgian Endive.  The purists would say that’s not Salad Nicoise. Well Salad Nicoise  is open to interpretation. Usually one things of lettuce greens,boiled eggs, tuna, tomato, potatoes, green beans, anchovies, capers,and black olives. There may be onion, garlic, shallots as well. Some people use artichokes, red peppers, and never add cooked vegetables. Some people omit the tuna. It’s really up to taste how you want to compose this rustic country salad based on seasons. I thought the use of endive leaves and small quail eggs would be elegant. A guest can pop these in their mouth with two or more bites, or they can eat it with a knife and fork as a small amuse bouche or starter for summer brunch. It’s all about presentation.


Salad Nicoise as a Small Appetizer
 
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A small plate version of Salad Nicoise
Author:
Recipe type: salad
Serves: approx 24
Ingredients
  • 1 small potato, peeled and boiled
  • 2 tablespoons Sherry Vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons Olive Oil
  • Sea Salt and Pepper to taste
  • 1 teaspoon dried Italian Seasoning
  • 2 tablespoons shallots minced
  • 6 quail eggs boiled
  • ½ cup green beans blanched
  • grape or cherry tomatoes
  • 1 can of oil packed tuna of good quality
  • 1 small jar anchovy fillets
  • 7 oil cured olives pitted and sliced into small quarters
  • salt packed capers
  • 2-3 heads Belgian Endive
  • For the dressing...
  • ½ cup Olive Oil
  • 3 tablespoons Sherry Vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon Dijon Mustard
  • ½ teaspoon garlic powder
  • salt and pepper to taste
Instructions
  1. Peel and Boil a small potato. Remove from hot water and carefully slice and cube.
  2. Add to a small bowl with the minced shallots, Italian Seasoning, Sherry Vinegar, and Olive Oil,salt and pepper. Set aside and chill.
  3. Boil Quails Eggs for approx 5 minutes and remove from heat. Peel and set aside and chill.
  4. Prep green beans by cutting trimming ends and cutting in half, then slicing lengthwise.
  5. Place green beans in rapidly boiling salted water for 1 minute . Drain and run cold water over them. Set aside and chill.
  6. Quarter the small cherry or grape tomatoes in bite size pieces. Set aside and chill.
  7. Pit and prep your olives.
  8. Wash the Belgian Endive. Cut off the flat ends. Gently pull each leave from top , and out to break away from the head. 2 heads makes approx 15 nice size "boats"
  9. Arrange your Mise en place with all the components ( potato shallot mixture, boiled quail eggs,tomatoes, olives, tuna, anchovies, capers)
  10. Make a vinaigrette emulsion with the olive oil, sherry vinegar, Dijon mustard, garlic powder, salt and pepper. (Use a whisk or immersion blender).
  11. Carefully take a endive leaf.
  12. Add a small spoon full of the potato shallot mixture in oil. Spread evenly
  13. Add a few flakes of tuna.
  14. Carefully slice a quail egg and place a few slices on top
  15. Arrange 2 tomato quarters.
  16. Add 2 pieces of green bean.
  17. Cut an anchovy fillet in half and place a piece on top.
  18. Add a few slices of olive,
  19. Finish with a few capers.
  20. Drizzle with a bit of the dressing and serve cold.
Notes
All the components can be prepped ahead and chilled.
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Spicy Red Clam Soup

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It’s hard to believe October is flying by and we will be into November soon. During this time, the body changes and may get a little run down due to the  seasonal shift.For me there is nothing more enticing these days than exotic spicy soups to rev this old girl up. October has been crazy busy with regular work, social activity, and few catering gigs.  Someone asked my the other day via Twitter where I have been as I have literally dropped on the earth with all my activities. I’m living and working hard. As a result I have been spreading myself thin and fighting the good fight against completely getting ill. So far so good. These days,  stuck  in the affluent North Shore,surprisingly I have been finding some great food shops . My nearby favorite is the Korean Mega Store H Mart, where I find myself doing regular grocery shopping because the meat , fish , and produce is outstanding! While having the fish man wrap up some halibut for me , I saw freshly shucked clam meat for 2.99 a pound. I instantly knew soup was going to be on the menu as I recovered with a rare weekend off and Certain Someone away for a bit.

I’m going to call this creation a soup, as opposed to  a chowder. To save  my waistline from further punishment I used the concept of a red based Manhattan Clam Chowder as an inspiration. The tomato based clam chowder was created by the Portuguese of New England  who decided to omit the cream. That didn’t go well with some and in return it was called Manhattan Clam Chowder to differentiate the chowder styles and as some some sort of insult , because anything New York was insulting. Go figure. There are many types of chowders and I decided to create my own clam based soup. No potatoes or bacon for me. Just lots of spices, tomatoes garlic, bell and hot peppers as a base . Maybe my African roots are waking up. I took some food memories of my Nigerian father sauteing tomatoes, garlic, and peppers in hot  oil to flavor his fish or chicken Nigerian soups/stews. I then thought about hot spicy Szechuan flavors and Hungarian Hot Paprika. I was all over the place. But the end result is oh so good for cold blustery or rainy day. Enjoy. And your waistline will thank you too.

Spicy Red Clam Soup
 
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A spicy red based clam soup
Author:
Recipe type: soup
Serves: 5-6 cups
Ingredients
  • 2 lbs clam meat fresh, canned, or frozen
  • 5-6 plum tomatoes chopped ( can leave skins on)
  • 5-6 cloves of garlic minced
  • 1 bell pepper minced finely
  • 1-2 hot peppers( Serrano, Korean, Jalepeno, etc) depending on your heat tolerance. Seeded and minced.
  • 5 cups chicken broth or 3 tablespoons chicken soup base with liquid equivalent
  • 2 tablespoon rice vinegar (milder in flavor)
  • 3 Tablespoons paprika
  • 1 tablespoon Vegeta ( optional)
  • 2 teaspoons of Thyme
  • ¼ cup Sherry
  • Red Pepper flakes to taste
  • Salt and pepper to taste if needed
  • Olive Oil
Instructions
  1. In a pot add a few tablespoons of olive oil and heat .
  2. Add chopped tomatoes , garlic and green peepers. Saute until cooked down and starting to break down.
  3. Add clams and some of their liquid ( about ¾ cup).( If canned there will be more and don't use as much). Cook for a few minutes.
  4. Add the chicken soup base and liquid or broth.
  5. Add rice vinegar, Vegeta ( Optional), Paprika, Thyme, and the minced hot peppers.
  6. Allow soup to come to a boil and reduce heat until a low simmer.
  7. Simmer for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally and checking flavors. Clams should be tender.
  8. Adjust to your taste. If more liquid needed add more clam juice or broth.
  9. During the last 10 minutes , stir in the Sherry and simmer.
  10. Turn off heat and serve hot.
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Packing and Pressure Canning Tuna

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One of my kindred spirits in the food blogging community is Heather of Voodoo and Sauce. She is an inspiration. I remember reading a post last year in which she packed her own Albacore tuna. As you know I like to challenge myself and I was determined to do this on my own . I love  canned tuna, especially the more expensive ones found in specialty stores with better grades of olive oil and spices as flavor. Once you make your own , all else pales in comparison. It’s great to have on hand to toss into salads and  other dishes. Pressure canning tuna may intimidate some, but its easier than you think. You just need a pressure canner as opposed to the water bath method to ensure all the harmful micro organisms are killed as it’s a low acidic food. I won’t say this experiment was flawless. For the first time ever I had two jars explode while canning and that is why my house smelled of fragrant tuna. The odds were it was bound to happen and could be attributed to a few reasons . Nevertheless I still had some great jars left that survived intact and have been enjoying them. I used Blue Fin tuna as I couldn’t find Albacore. I varied my flavors with dried lemongrass ,  fresh rosemary or fresh dill. You can use water or olive oil. I prefer oil, but be prepared for more mess when canning.


Packing and Pressure Canning Tuna
 
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Canning fresh tuna
Author:
Recipe type: entree
Ingredients
  • Bluefin or Albacore Tuna
  • Kosher Salt
  • Fresh or dried herbs like dill, rosemary, peppercorns, lemongrass
  • Peppercorns
  • Olive Oil or water
  • ½ pint jars
  • Pressure Canner
Instructions
  1. Sterilize your jars and lids according to manufactures instructions.
  2. Cut your fresh raw tuna into medallions or pieces that will fit into the jar when packed.
  3. Pour olive oil or water carefully into the jar. Fill just to cover but leave ample head space below the ring ( approx ½ inch to ¾ of an inch) as the fish will make its own juices. If its overfilled , the lid wont seal.
  4. Pack you choice of herbs and spices.
  5. Top each jar with ½ teaspoon of Kosher salt.
  6. Wipe rims and carefully seal.
  7. Take a Pressure canner with a rack and and fill with 1.5 inches- 2 inches of water. The rack is essential so the jars wont break form the heat and rattling pressure. Make sure there is enough water , but it doesn't reach the ring of the jar. Unlike water batch canning , the jars don't have to be submerged in water. Pressure canning builds up humidity but you don't want the canner to run dry as its dangerous to open under pressure.
  8. Follow Pressure Canner instructions and use the weight pressure of 11.
  9. Pressure Can for at least 90 minutes. Watch carefully and reduce heat if necessary according the canners instructions on maintaining proper pressure.
  10. After the time has elapsed , let canner cool down and remove when cool.
  11. Place jars on a rack or towel and wait for the ping sound to signify if the jars are properly sealed. This will happen over the course of the next few hours. When you press down on the center there should be no resistance. ( See you jar manufacturers instructions).
  12. If not sealed refrigerate and consume immediately over the next few days.
  13. There may be some grease residue on outside of jar after canning and that can be cleaned and removed with vinegar and water.
  14. Can be kept in a dry cool place for 6 months to max of 1 year.
Notes
Please read and follow your jars and Pressure canning instructions.
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The Ebb and Flow of Life and Some Lobster Rolls

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Finally a moment to reconnect with me, my home, and blog. The past few weeks have been crazy busy , but in a good way.  I have so much to tell you. First I got a job! Yeah. Is it the sort of job I was seeking or used to? Not necessarily, but its in my field of expertise ( retail cosmetics management), and company I have long admired and respected. I had to take a pay cut, but its the sort of company you start from the bottom and that’s OK with me as I actually snagged a management position. And great benefits ! This is why we work. The first week I hit the ball out of the park and the powers that be are impressed with my knowledge and history. So for now it works for me and I am grateful. I think there are so many people who refuse to take a step back or settle in this ecomony, but I dont want to sit at home whining and broke  waiting for handouts from Certain Someone (he’s been awesome and very supportive by the way, but a girl has to have her own stash and means). I have met many like myself or even not that were making over six figures andf suddenly having to fall into service jobs or retail after being laid off. You do it with your head held high and joy and gratitude.

I also have been juggling Coco Cooks Catering , and have to date produced two successful events. I love it when people love my food and services. I have been studying and working part time in the industry towards this for years to learn the ropes and it is actually into fruition. I know the level of hard painful work involved and have no illusions of instant payoff and glamour. I do it because I love it. Word of mouth and reputation is huge and that’s how it all started thanks to French Foodie Mom and her social set. You never know and  must be ready when opportunity comes knocking. After the first event  everyone said I should I should focus on this and get my business affairs in order. Thanks to my generous aunt, I got the small start up moneies needed to be totally official and meet all requirements. with insurance, licenses, etc. It’s a lot of work and detail, but worth it. Can I give up the day job yet? No. But that day will be coming. Here is a great article in the New York times addressing that very issue. Read it if you want to take a leap into entrepreneurship. I think this is the wisest way to start and I realize it means burning the candle at both ends. But the payoff will be worth it.

My latest client  wanted a whole Cape Cod Surf and Turf Theme . She had very definitive views of what she wanted food wise and her decor which was lovely. Naturally I knew I had to add Lobster Rolls to my menu proposal as well. They were the hit of the party! I remember those fantastic lobster rolls I had in Boston a few years ago. There are two camps for making Lobster Rolls. The simple rich decadent tossed  in butter  method or the Celery  and Mayo way.

Here is a simple recipe  to celebrate the last few days of summer. My recipe in my head is for 200 mini Lobster rolls , but I will pare it down to give you an idea of proportions. The key to a great Lobster Roll, which will have people bursting into your kitchen demanding more, like the the party guests, is a heavily buttered toasted bun. I also used a mixture of Creme Fraiche or Sour Cream cut into the mayonnaise to add extra flavor, and reduce an overly mayonnaise, fatty taste. A little secret a chef taught  me along the way.

Here was the final menu for the event. The top hits being the Lobster Rolls, Beef Tenderloin Crostinis with choice of Horseradish Aioli or Red Pepper Aioli, and the Herb Stuffed Cremini Mushrooms topped with Tallegio. Oh and Shrimp and Deviled eggs with Wasabi! It was all so good.

Traditional Deviled Eggs and Wasabi Deviled Eggs

Old Bay Marinated Shrimp on Skewers

Herb Stuffed Cremini Mushrooms topped with Tallegio Chesse

Lobster Rolls

Beef Tenderloin Crostini with Red Pepper Aioli or Horse Radish Aioli

Cheese and Relish Platter with Coco’s Picklings Giardiniera

Warm Spiced Mixed Nuts ( Pistachios, Pecans,Cashews, Almonds)

 

Mini Lobster Rolls
 
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A entree or appetizer for a summer soiree.
Author:
Recipe type: Entree
Ingredients
  • Lobster Claw and Knuckle Meat ( wholly cooked frozen and defrosted)
  • Mayonnaise
  • Creme Fraiche or Sour Cream
  • Celery finely minced
  • Celery Seeds
  • Celery Salt
  • Melted Butter
  • Mini Croissants (cut in half) or a split Hot dog Bun type of bread for an Entree
Instructions
  1. Remove the lobster meat from the shells and place in bowl.
  2. Depending on quantities needed , take 1 part mayonnaise to ⅓ part cream fraiche or sour cream. You don't want to much of this and you want the lobster salad to hold and not be soupy.
  3. Add minced celery( again depending on quantity and taste)
  4. Add a pinch of celery salt and celery seeds to taste to build up to taste.
  5. Mix thoroughly and chill until ready to use.
  6. In a separate pot melt the amount of butter needed to dip and toast the quantity of bread you are using.
  7. If you serving these as appetizers cut the mini croissants in half and split lengthwise.
  8. In a grill pan or skillet pour in some butter to soak the bread in.
  9. Place the buns split open to absorb the butter and lightly toast on each side. Set aside until ready to fill.
Notes
As I made this recipe for a very large crowd, I am giving you the ingredients and method, as opposed to actual quantities of ingredients.
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Off to do another proposal for a client on this rare day off. Life is good. Enjoy it and embrace it.

Salt and Pepper Shrimp with the Heads and A Story

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The past week I have been taking a online writing workshop called Romancing The Palate. Some of you know I am working on a foodie based romance . The whole genre is new to me and I’m learning a lot from a great group of writers. The teacher of the workshop is “Becca” , who I really got to know this fall as we entered a Mills and Boon competition. She’s a  wealth of info with some great blogs.

I decided to post one of my assignments , a piece about eating one of my favorite dishes ,Salt and Pepper Shrimp and the process of eating it. Debate is rampant on the best way eat this dish. I’m old school and like it the traditional Chinese way with the head on. Because any good chef knows the flavor is  in the shells, bones, and other nasty bits. Look at this beautiful oil after I fried the shrimp. That’s all that inner roe and shell in the head infusing the oil with flavor. If you want to be a wimp , take off the head, but keep that shell ON! First the story and then the recipe.

Amuse Bouche

It’s Better With The Head On

“Come on” Alexandre pulled Sidra up from the bed. It was Sunday and they were lazing around after a particularly brutal Saturday evening service at Le Boite. Normally either Alexandre or Sidra would make some breakfast and French pressed coffee, to be in bed. Classic traditional continental breakfast with the best pastry and breads from the best restaurant in London.

“We need to do some research in Soho, Chinatown for a new concept I’m working on.” Alexandre said playfully with a hint a promise.

“New concept?” Sidra pulled the sheets up over head, reluctant to leave the confines of the billowy goose down bedding. She could still smell the sandalwood scent of him on the sheets as she squinted against the sun beaming onto the room. They had been serious about each other for some months now, and she loved their normal laid back ritualistic Sundays. As their romance was not yet public, Sidra had reservations about being seen with the hottest playboy chef in London, traipsing around So Ho. Anyone could spot them as Alexandre was a household name. She could just envision the Daily Mail.

Alexander and Sidra quickly got dressed. Their style was a pared down elegance that the French mastered for eons. Sidra, a quick study, followed suit. She needed no makeup as she glowed. She was in love and just where she wanted to be. Work, love, all conjoining into the perfect flow. It showed on Alexandre too. He felt alive, inspired, and for the first time, really in touch what and who he wanted. No room for games or ego here. Could it be Sidra tamed the fiery chef?

They entered a small nondescript restaurant called Madame Changs. The sounds of various dialects of Chinese filled the air, and the menus written on the wall were not in English. The clanks, whooshes of steam, and sizzling hisses from the kitchen, could be heard at their table. An elderly lady, who was perhaps Madame Chang herself, greeted Alexandre warmly. They seemed to be old friends.

“You let me choose what you will eat today Alexandre?”, said Madame Chang.

“My taste buds are in your hands”, said Alexandre with relish.

The first dish was presented with flourish. To start, large fried shrimps with heads on were seductively arranged on bed of chilies and peppers. Each shrimp is fried and coated in a crispy batter, with the shells and head left intact, with a sprinkle of some spicy Schezwan salt and cracked black pepper.

“I have had salt and pepper squid, but the shrimp always wins as my favorite.” Alexandre said excitedly as he waved his hand in a flourish to take in the garlicky aroma of the sizzling shrimp that just left the wok.

Sidra’s mouth started to water. She could just taste the tiny bits of fried garlic and hot chilies of the red and green varieties are tossed with shrimp and finished with a boost of briny soy sauce. With her bare fingers, she took a shrimp straight from the dish, ignoring the white rice just being served. Alexandre looked at her as she licked the entire shell and suck off the crispy fried batter and pieces of the peppers sticking to it.

“I see you are no stranger to Salt and Pepper Shrimp? “, he grinned at her sexy yet youthful appreciation of the food. “Finally a woman who is not afraid to eat and enjoy”, he said as he dug in.

Sidra took the head off gingerly with her fingers and sucked at it. The taste of salty garlic with a tinge of spice overwhelms her mouth.  She then ripped a solid lump of mild sweet white flesh of the shrimp from the shell. Each piece of fried morsel is a gem to her mouth. Before she could repeat the process, she licks her fingers clean, not wanting to waste a bit of it all. Oil, salt and spice cling to them. Forget the chopsticks.

All Alexandre could do was beam with pride. Someone not afraid to tackle salt and pepper shrimp with the heads on.

Madame Chang came over to check on her favored guests. She looked down at the discarded heads of shrimp with respect.

“I like her Alexandre. The flavor is in the head”, she purred.

“She eats it like a true Chinese person.” she said with a wink as she brought the rest of the Dim Sum .

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Salt and Pepper Shrimp

Serves 2 as main course or 4 as a starter

  • 1 lb fresh shrimp with the head on. ( If you choose to leave the head off, leave the shell intact but cut down back to de-vein)
  • 1 1/2 cups rice flour
  • Peanut or vegetable oil for frying
  • 2 jalapenos peppers or chili peppers sliced and chopped
  • 1/4 cup chopped sweet red peppers sliced and chopped
  • 3 cloves of garlic chopped
  • 1/4 cup chopped onion
  • Kosher salt and Black Pepper or  Sichuan peppercorns
  1. Prep your space with all the ingredients ready to go and chopped.
  2. Toast peppercorns in a dry skillet to release flavor. Crush  with fingers or use a food grinder to blend with your Kosher salt.
  3. Cut the long ‘whiskers’ off the shrimp. Wash shrimp.
  4. In a Ziploc bag  add the rice flour and shrimp. Shake to coat.
  5. Heat your oil until high in your wok.
  6. At the frying point add the shrimp and few at a time. Fry until pink and remove with slotted spoon to a platter.
  7. The oil will start to turn pink as the inner shrimp and shell infuses the oil with flavor and color.
  8. Once all shrimp are fried, remove all but a few tablespoons of the oil.
  9. In the hot wok with the reserved bit of oil , toss in the chopped garlic, onions, peppers/chilies. Stir Fry for a bit.
  10. Add some peppercorn and salt mixture to taste.
  11. Add shrimp back  into skillet and adjust with more peppercorn and salt. Toss until the shrimps are coated with the garlic, onions, peppers/chilies, salt, etc
  12. Serve with rice or on a bed of shredded lettuce.

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