Daring Bakers …Vol au Vents ( Duck Livers,Mushroom,Spinach in Cognac Cream and Hazelnut Chocolate Mousse)

The September 2009 Daring Bakers’ challenge was hosted by Steph of A Whisk and a Spoon. She chose the French treat, Vols-au-Vent based on the Puff Pastry recipe by Michel Richard from the cookbook Baking With Julia by Dorie Greenspan.

I vowed to do this months challenge after missing a few.Also I believe this month I start my third year with the Daring Bakers! While some people cringe and cower in fright at puff pastry, I love to make it. Maybe I was emboldened by all my pastry classes this summer at French Pastry School. The idea of filling Vol au Vents with sweet or savory was also pleasing to me, as this wouldn’t be a challenge that would go to waste. Vol Au Vents could be a meal or dessert. And I just may have some extra dough to freeze for later.
The more and more I make puff pastry , the easier it gets. However I wont say the shaping of these Vol au Vents were easy. I did have some misshapen ones, but they were all good. Currently I am working on some holiday stories for my writing for Ebony Jet.com. As a result, the weekend I tackled the Daring Bakers, I had also roasted a duck. I decided to use those delectable duck livers for one savory filling with spinach, mushrooms,cream and cognac. The other decadent filling was a hazelnut chocolate mousse topped with candied hazelnuts. I love that you can vary the shape size from appetizer portion to entree. I fell in love with hazelnut mousse in my pastry class. Perhaps there is just to much Julia Child influence in me these past few months. Certain Someone was home for a hot second and fed him a quick brunch of the savory Vol au Vents. He did his quiet grumble of approval before he flew off. Not his type of food per se, as he would have put some sausage in there, but good. So with that I take it that they were good.

Duck Liver , Spinach, Mushroom and Cognac Cream Vol A Vents

Take a few cooked duck livers and giblets and chopped them. In a skillet brown them in a little butter or duck fat with chopped mushrooms. De glaze pan with some cognac. Add some duck or chicken stock. Then add washed fresh spinach leaves and cook until wilted. At this point our in some heavy cream or half and half. In a small dish mix some 1 tablespoon cornstarch and water . Add to cream mixture in and and cook until slightly thickened. Fill mediu, size Vol au Vents. You can omit the duck liver and just use mushrooms. You can also use chicken livers as a replacement.

Hazelnut Chocolate Mousse Vol au Vents

This is a recipe I’m saving for a later article. But the basics mousse composition is making a Pate a Bomb ( cooked egg yolks, and hot sugar whipped into a froth). I then made a hazelnut praline . Candied hazelnuts are ground into a paste with a little addition of oil to help along. I heated the half of my heavy cream with bloomed gelatin and poured on top of dark chocolate to soften. I whipped the other half of heavy cream into soft peaks and folded with my Pate a Bomb. The Pate a Bomb mixture is then folded into chocolate ganache mixture. Chill to set, and then pipe. Top with additional candied hazelnuts.

Be sure to check out the other Daring Bakers to see their take on Vol au Vents.

Equipment:-food processor (will make mixing dough easy, but I imagine this can be done by hand as well)-rolling pin-pastry brush-metal bench scraper (optional, but recommended)-plastic wrap-baking sheet-parchment paper-silicone baking mat (optional, but recommended)-set of round cutters (optional, but recommended)-sharp chef’s knife-fork-oven-cooling rack
Prep Times:-about 4-5 hours to prepare the puff pastry dough (much of this time is inactive, while you wait for the dough to chill between turns…it can be stretched out over an even longer period of time if that better suits your schedule)-about 1.5 hours to shape, chill and bake the vols-au-vent after your puff pastry dough is complete
Forming and Baking the Vols-au-Vent
Yield: 1/3 of the puff pastry recipe below will yield about 8-10 1.5” vols-au-vent or 4 4” vols-au-vent
In addition to the equipment listed above, you will need:-well-chilled puff pastry dough (recipe below)-egg wash (1 egg or yolk beaten with a small amount of water)-your filling of choice
Line a baking sheet with parchment and set aside.
Using a knife or metal bench scraper, divided your chilled puff pastry dough into three equal pieces. Work with one piece of the dough, and leave the rest wrapped and chilled. (If you are looking to make more vols-au-vent than the yield stated above, you can roll and cut the remaining two pieces of dough as well…if not, then leave refrigerated for the time being or prepare it for longer-term freezer storage. See the “Tips” section below for more storage info.)
On a lightly floured surface, roll the piece of dough into a rectangle about 1/8 to 1/4-inch (3-6 mm) thick. Transfer it to the baking sheet and refrigerate for about 10 minutes before proceeding with the cutting.
(This assumes you will be using round cutters, but if you do not have them, it is possible to cut square vols-au-vents using a sharp chef’s knife.) For smaller, hors d’oeuvre sized vols-au-vent, use a 1.5” round cutter to cut out 8-10 circles. For larger sized vols-au-vent, fit for a main course or dessert, use a 4” cutter to cut out about 4 circles. Make clean, sharp cuts and try not to twist your cutters back and forth or drag your knife through the dough. Half of these rounds will be for the bases, and the other half will be for the sides. (Save any scrap by stacking—not wadding up—the pieces…they can be re-rolled and used if you need extra dough. If you do need to re-roll scrap to get enough disks, be sure to use any rounds cut from it for the bases, not the ring-shaped sides.)
Using a ¾-inch cutter for small vols-au-vent, or a 2- to 2.5-inch round cutter for large, cut centers from half of the rounds to make rings. These rings will become the sides of the vols-au-vent, while the solid disks will be the bottoms. You can either save the center cut-outs to bake off as little “caps” for you vols-au-vent, or put them in the scrap pile.

Dock the solid bottom rounds with a fork (prick them lightly, making sure not to go all the way through the pastry) and lightly brush them with egg wash. Place the rings directly on top of the bottom rounds and very lightly press them to adhere. Brush the top rings lightly with egg wash, trying not to drip any down the sides (which may inhibit rise). If you are using the little “caps,” dock and egg wash them as well.

Refrigerate the assembled vols-au-vent on the lined baking sheet while you pre-heat the oven to 400ºF (200ºC). (You could also cover and refrigerate them for a few hours at this point.)
Once the oven is heated, remove the sheet from the refrigerator and place a silicon baking mat (preferred because of its weight) or another sheet of parchment over top of the shells. This will help them rise evenly. Bake the shells until they have risen and begin to brown, about 10-15 minutes depending on their size. Reduce the oven temperature to 350ºF (180ºC), and remove the silicon mat or parchment sheet from the top of the vols-au-vent. If the centers have risen up inside the vols-au-vent, you can gently press them down. Continue baking (with no sheet on top) until the layers are golden, about 15-20 minutes more. (If you are baking the center “caps” they will likely be finished well ahead of the shells, so keep an eye on them and remove them from the oven when browned.)
Remove to a rack to cool. Cool to room temperature for cold fillings or to warm for hot fillings.
Fill and serve.
*For additional rise on the larger-sized vols-au-vents, you can stack one or two additional ring layers on top of each other (using egg wash to “glue”). This will give higher sides to larger vols-au-vents, but is not advisable for the smaller ones, whose bases may not be large enough to support the extra weight.
*Although they are at their best filled and eaten soon after baking, baked vols-au-vent shells can be stored airtight for a day.
*Shaped, unbaked vols-au-vent can be wrapped and frozen for up to a month (bake from frozen, egg-washing them first).
Michel Richard’s Puff Pastry Dough
From: Baking with Julia by Dorie GreenspanYield: 2-1/2 pounds doughSteph’s note: This recipe makes more than you will need for the quantity of vols-au-vent stated above. While I encourage you to make the full recipe of puff pastry, as extra dough freezes well, you can halve it successfully if you’d rather not have much leftover.
There is a wonderful on-line video from the PBS show “Baking with Julia” that accompanies the book. In it, Michel Richard and Julia Child demonstrate making puff pastry dough (although they go on to use it in other applications). They do seem to give slightly different ingredient measurements verbally than the ones in the book…I listed the recipe as it appears printed in the book.
http://video.pbs.org/video/1174110297/search/Pastry
Ingredients:2-1/2 cups (12.2 oz/ 354 g) unbleached all-purpose flour1-1/4 cups (5.0 oz/ 142 g) cake flour1 tbsp. salt (you can cut this by half for a less salty dough or for sweet preparations)1-1/4 cups (10 fl oz/ 300 ml) ice water1 pound (16 oz/ 454 g) very cold unsalted butter
plus extra flour for dusting work surface
Mixing the Dough:
Check the capacity of your food processor before you start. If it cannot hold the full quantity of ingredients, make the dough into two batches and combine them.
Put the all-purpose flour, cake flour, and salt in the work bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade and pulse a couple of times just to mix. Add the water all at once, pulsing until the dough forms a ball on the blade. The dough will be very moist and pliable and will hold together when squeezed between your fingers. (Actually, it will feel like Play-Doh.)
Remove the dough from the machine, form it into a ball, with a small sharp knife, slash the top in a tic-tac-toe pattern. Wrap the dough in a damp towel and refrigerate for about 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, place the butter between 2 sheets of plastic wrap and beat it with a rolling pin until it flattens into a square that’s about 1″ thick. Take care that the butter remains cool and firm: if it has softened or become oily, chill it before continuing.
Incorporating the Butter:
Unwrap the dough and place it on a work surface dusted with all-purpose flour (A cool piece of marble is the ideal surface for puff pastry) with your rolling pin (preferably a French rolling pin without handles), press on the dough to flatten it and then roll it into a 10″ square. Keep the top and bottom of the dough well floured to prevent sticking and lift the dough and move it around frequently. Starting from the center of the square, roll out over each corner to create a thick center pad with “ears,” or flaps.
Place the cold butter in the middle of the dough and fold the ears over the butter, stretching them as needed so that they overlap slightly and encase the butter completely. (If you have to stretch the dough, stretch it from all over; don’t just pull the ends) you should now have a package that is 8″ square.
To make great puff pastry, it is important to keep the dough cold at all times. There are specified times for chilling the dough, but if your room is warm, or you work slowly, or you find that for no particular reason the butter starts to ooze out of the pastry, cover the dough with plastic wrap and refrigerate it . You can stop at any point in the process and continue at your convenience or when the dough is properly chilled.
Making the Turns:
Gently but firmly press the rolling pin against the top and bottom edges of the square (this will help keep it square). Then, keeping the work surface and the top of the dough well floured to prevent sticking, roll the dough into a rectangle that is three times as long as the square you started with, about 24″ (don’t worry about the width of the rectangle: if you get the 24″, everything else will work itself out.) With this first roll, it is particularly important that the butter be rolled evenly along the length and width of the rectangle; check when you start rolling that the butter is moving along well, and roll a bit harder or more evenly, if necessary, to get a smooth, even dough-butter sandwich (use your arm-strength!).
With a pastry brush, brush off the excess flour from the top of the dough, and fold the rectangle up from the bottom and down from the top in thirds, like a business letter, brushing off the excess flour. You have completed one turn.
Rotate the dough so that the closed fold is to your left, like the spine of a book. Repeat the rolling and folding process, rolling the dough to a length of 24″ and then folding it in thirds. This is the second turn.
Chilling the Dough:
If the dough is still cool and no butter is oozing out, you can give the dough another two turns now. If the condition of the dough is iffy, wrap it in plastic wrap and refrigerate it for at least 30 minutes. Each time you refrigerate the dough, mark the number of turns you’ve completed by indenting the dough with your fingertips. It is best to refrigerate the dough for 30 to 60 minutes between each set of two turns.
The total number of turns needed is six. If you prefer, you can give the dough just four turns now, chill it overnight, and do the last two turns the next day. Puff pastry is extremely flexible in this regard. However, no matter how you arrange your schedule, you should plan to chill the dough for at least an hour before cutting or shaping it.
Steph’s extra tips:
-While this is not included in the original recipe we are using (and I did not do this in my own trials), many puff pastry recipes use a teaspoon or two of white vinegar or lemon juice, added to the ice water, in the détrempe dough. This adds acidity, which relaxes the gluten in the dough by breaking down the proteins, making rolling easier. You are welcome to try this if you wish.
-Keep things cool by using the refrigerator as your friend! If you see any butter starting to leak through the dough during the turning process, rub a little flour on the exposed dough and chill straight away. Although you should certainly chill the dough for 30 to 60 minutes between each set of two turns, if you feel the dough getting to soft or hard to work with at any point, pop in the fridge for a rest.
-Not to sound contradictory, but if you chill your paton longer than the recommended time between turns, the butter can firm up too much. If this seems to be the case, I advise letting it sit at room temperature for 5-10 minutes to give it a chance to soften before proceeding to roll. You don’t want the hard butter to separate into chuncks or break through the dough…you want it to roll evenly, in a continuous layer.
-Roll the puff pastry gently but firmly, and don’t roll your pin over the edges, which will prevent them from rising properly. Don’t roll your puff thinner than about about 1/8 to 1/4-inch (3-6 mm) thick, or you will not get the rise you are looking for.
-Try to keep “neat” edges and corners during the rolling and turning process, so the layers are properly aligned. Give the edges of the paton a scooch with your rolling pin or a bench scraper to keep straight edges and 90-degree corners.
-Brush off excess flour before turning dough and after rolling.
-Make clean cuts. Don’t drag your knife through the puff or twist your cutters too much, which can inhibit rise.
-When egg washing puff pastry, try not to let extra egg wash drip down the cut edges, which can also inhibit rise.
-Extra puff pastry dough freezes beautifully. It’s best to roll it into a sheet about 1/8 to 1/4-inch thick (similar to store-bought puff) and freeze firm on a lined baking sheet. Then you can easily wrap the sheet in plastic, then foil (and if you have a sealable plastic bag big enough, place the wrapped dough inside) and return to the freezer for up to a few months. Defrost in the refrigerator when ready to use.
-You can also freeze well-wrapped, unbaked cut and shaped puff pastry (i.e., unbaked vols-au-vent shells). Bake from frozen, without thawing first.
-Homemade puff pastry is precious stuff, so save any clean scraps. Stack or overlap them, rather than balling them up, to help keep the integrity of the layers. Then give them a singe “turn” and gently re-roll. Scrap puff can be used for applications where a super-high rise is not necessary (such as palmiers, cheese straws, napoleons, or even the bottom bases for your vols-au-vent).

u Vents

ound

Quick and Easy Soft Corn Tortilla Beef Tacos in less than 20 minutes

Summer time means less time in the kitchen for many people.This is just a quick recipe recipe I threw together with what I had on hand. Bear in my mind I don’t claim to be the voice of authenticity, but rather the voice of improvising and using whats on hand.That being said what does one do with frozen thin sliced Shabu Shabu style beef(from the butcher in Chinatown), onions, tomatillo sauce, and cheese? Make a taco! But if you have a few mouths to feed or even feed just one and have little time, this is a quick one for you.

Components:
Corn Tortillas
Sour Cream
Tomatillo Salsa
Cilantro
Beef or Chicken ( ground versions work well to0)
Onions
Queso Fresco
Spices( salt or salt free seasoning, pepper, chipotle,Chili powder, garlic,etc)
Pickled Jalapenos and Carrots
Brown your meat and onions in a lightly oiled skillet. Season to taste with salt, pepper, chipotle, etc. Set aside. Heat corn tortillas on each side in an ungreased skillet. Dress each tortilla with meat, cheese, sour cream, tomatillo, and cilantro. Garnish with lime.
* I made mine salt free with salt free seasonings blend. The lime and tomatillo add flavor as well).

My Legume Love Affair 10 Roundup

This was my first time hosting a large event and I was so impressed and happy with the entries I received for My Legume Love Affair created by the brilliant Susan of The Well Seasoned Cook. Keeping this month to Starters and Desserts was somewhat limiting ,but we received a jewel box collection of recipes from around the world. Check out these healthy treasures and consider them next time you are looking for something a little different and makes everyone say Wow.
So lets break it down into 2 sections:
Starters

Christine of Kits Chow created these exquisite Korean mung bean pancakes,Bindae Duk.
Jeanne,my African sista from CookSister, made these elegant chickpea & paprika crostini.

Susan, My Legume Love Affairs creator made just in the nick of time Steamed Red Bean Buns.
Bea and Jai from Jugalbandi make for us Horse Gram Cocktail Fritters.

indosungod from Daily Musings gave us Swiss chard and Black Bean Empanadas
Sweatha of TastyCurryLeaf is a person after my own heart with these black eye pea patties with a hot chili sauce.
Uma of Vegan Orbit gave us this tasty carrot and lentil soup.

Kalaivani of Little Taste Buds created Chickpea and green pea soup. Double whammy of legumes!
Lori, next months host from Taste With The Eyes, always served up inspiration with Cilantro scented navy bean hash with smoked salmon rosettes.

365 Days of Pure Vegetarian makes for us the perfect snack food Homemade Falafel

Sumy of Make the Impossible …Possible,made Payaru thoran . A small serving of this would kick off any meal.


Indrani of Appyayan made Masoor Dal Vada ( red lentil fritters). Legumes make the best fritters.


My fellow Chicagoan Jude of Apple Pie, Patis, and Pâté rose to the occasion with this wonderful starter that captures the season of spring. Sauteed Morel Mushrooms and Fava Beans .

Ashwini from Nanna Adige gives us two starters for a Ugadi feast,Thondekayi Palya and Black Eyed Peas Vada.
I also received another entry from Ashwini for Sprouted Pulses Roti.

Divya of Dil Se made a comforting dish of Khichdi

LK at Food For Tots made a delicious Black Beans Soup

Funny how different cultures have variations on the same theme. I went back to my roots and made Akara( West African Black Eye Pea Fritters), a childhood favorite.
Desserts


Priyasuresh, of Priya’s Easy N Tasty Recipes created Channadal N Coconut Kheer. A lovely treat.


Elizabeth from Our Kitchen made a healthy new take on a familiar treat, Black Bean Brownies.


Aparna from My Diverse Kitchen makes Besan-Coconut Burfi (Chickpea Flour-Coconut Indian Style Fudge)


Uma from Vegan Orbit makes another version of Kheer for us with Moon Dhal Kheer


Kevin from Closet Cooking made these yummy Japanese Dorayaki. I could eat these as both a starter or dessert.


Michelle from Big Black Dogs created these Chocolate Peanut Roll cookies which look to die for.

I don’t know why she calls herself Msmeanie when she creates treats that are so sweet and nice.Chana Dal Burfi from Chocolate Chip Trips.Try saying that a few times.

A&N from Delectably Yours made a Hayagreeva,a Bengal Gram dessert and recollects family memories.

Soma from eCurry makes a Sweet Peanut Brittle Bar .

Being the hostess I felt obliged to make both savory and sweet entries. Here is my Adzuki and Sesame Seed Cookies.
And the winner of the Ball Complete Book of Home Preserving is (names drawn from mixing bowl)
Jeanne from Cook Sister! Email me for details on how to get your prize.

So there we have it. Quite a collection. Be sure to visit Mays host Lori for deatils on MLL11.

Chocolate Palmiers Equals Love

When I went to art school in Paris I had this friend Shelly that I will always remember for her love of Palmiers, cigarettes, and coffee. It seemed thats how she survived between our studio classes.Palmiers are puff pastry folded into a fan shape, rolled into sugar and baked into caramelized crispy like thin cookies.

You could make some from commercial puff pastry, but I wanted the challenge of making a Pate Feuilletee from scratch, which I haven’t done for years.

While surfing through the online Desserts Magazine , I came across a blogger , who I should have been following, but I am always slow on the uptake. Aran, from Cannelle Et Vanille. She adapted Pierre Hermes Chocolate Pate Feuuilletee and her recipes for a Caramelized Chocolate Mille-Feuille with Chocolate Mousse and Fresh Raspberries Napoleon and Chocolate Palmiers.
Aran warns this recipe can take upwards of 2 days.For me It took 3. I didn’t do the first two steps on the same night, and had to fudge a little. I should have mixed my butter/cocoa mix the same night as I made the dough, and let both rest overnight, but I read the directions wrong. So the next evening after work I speed the process of chilling the butter in the freezer for a few hours so I could incorporate it into the folds and turns of dough.This dough required 5 turns, and you start to see the cocoa and butter turn the white dough into a marbled chocolate slab. I used half a block of dough for 20 Palmiers, and stored the rest in the freezer.
The Palmiers cooled up buttery and crisp. The perfect shapes didn’t hold perfectly and my sugar really caramelized with the butter, thereby not looking all freshly rolled in sugar as Arans were. But nevertheless they tasted superb. Rich, crispy, flaky, full of butter and chocolate, but not to sweet.So the labor, and sore arms and hands from all that rolling and turning are worth it for this special treat. I would love to have a block of this puff pastry on hand in the freezer all time.If life were so perfect…sigh.
Click here for the recipe and check out all the other great articles.

Coconut Curried Goat With Rice and Red Lentils

One of my favorite treats as a child growing up in diverse Washington D.C was when my father brought home takeout of curried goat and Roti from some hole in the wall. That was good eating. He was a man that didn’t stray from his staples of Nigerian food, but he did like good Caribbean food. Lately I have been hankering for goat meat. In the Bahamas I was disappointed with their Americanized fare and didn’t see any. I must have been asleep at the the foodie radar to realize goat meat has gone mainstream and is now served in many a restaurant and featured in magazines. Last time I had some goat was at a dumpy Indian restaurant and it was good but had more bone than meat for my tastes. But the sauce was spicy and thick. I purchased my goat at Pete’s Fresh Market a great chain that has a large Mexican and Asian clientele. Any sort of exotic produce or meat is available and they have it at pretty fair prices. I eyed a goat leg in the butcher case. To big for just me, but I need to get one one day for a BBQ. The goat on display looked like rib cages and me not knowing cuts was perplexed. But the butcher told me he could cut it down into pieces for me, I was hoping for a boneless type of cut to cook down, but started off with 6 pounds of pieces. expertly cut up for me. The pieces he gave thankfully had a lot of meat.
6 pounds is a lot and my aim was to cook it down in the pressure cooker and eat of it all this over the weekend. It gets even better the next day.Here is my ‘recipe’. Its not formal, just what I did.

Clean goat meat and pat dry. In an uncovered pressure cooker brown 2 large onions, some tablespoons of curry powder to your taste, cumin, salt, pepper,turmeric ,chili powder, and the meat with a bit of oil. Note the goat has fat, and I didn’t want it to greasy. Cut up and seed about 3 jalapenos or a lesser amount of Scotch bonnet peppers if you can get them( depends on your heat tolerance). Add some cilantro and a cleaned sliced leek , and some leftover chopped tomato to the mix. Mix up . Add about 2 cups of water ( next time I would add less as it creates more liquid). Cover , seal, and cook at a pressure of 15 lbs for 45-50 minutes. Cool down with cold water method or naturally until lid releases. Drain off any excessive liquids and fat( I had about 4 cups I drained off , so next time add less liquid. But I left enough in). Stir in one can of coconut milk to finish. Serve with rice boiled with red lentils and garnish with more fresh cilantro and maybe a some jalapeno if you desire it more spicy.

You can cook this a normal stove top method but the cooking time will be between 2-3 hours. Pressure cooking cuts the time down and yields really tender and succulent meat.