Daring Bakers Do Eclairs…And Missing My Real Sugar Daddy

I missed last months Daring Bakers and was happy to see this months challenge chosen by MeetaK an Tony. Eclairs , pastry cream, and chocolate glazes from Pierre Herme. A running joke between some Daring Bakers is to call the famous Pierre Herme their Sugar Daddy. After all he is the master of all things sweet. My blogging hasn’t been as productive this past month for a multitude of reasons , and the main one being that my real Sugar Daddy has been in Europe for work all month. You see I feel inspired to cook for him . So when its hot and I’m busy, wheres the inspiration? Just before Certain Someone left , we were at a cocktail party and he wanted to know if I could make a choux like pastry like the appetizer he had. I informed him Bien Sur. He wasn’t around the last time a made them for a family event. So naturally I was sad he would miss this months challenge. Meta and Tony gave us a leeway. The only requirement was that at least one chocolate element remain. With that I immediately knew I would make a Butterscotch filling, because that’s what my Sugar Daddy likes!See how he inspires me! Even though he couldn’t be home to taste the eclairs. Another thought was my mother. She used to tell me how when she was pregnant with me all she she craved was Napoleons and eclairs! I wish she were alive to make them with me. It’s surprisingly simple.

I divided my process into a few hours for two days. Make the pastry creams and choux pastry to freeze day one. And make the chocolate sauce and glaze the final day, along with baking. I followed Tartelettes suggestion on the forum to pipe and freeze. Great idea and that way I didn’t have to cook it all once. I have some choux ready to pop into the oven when Certain Someone is ready. Please be sure to check out the global and ever expanding Daring Bakers. The recipes for all the Eclair elements follow in addition to my one modification. What did I do with the half batch I made? I took them to a family gathering.You know the family that looks with some unknown fear at new stuff to broaden their horizons.Pound cake people. The few that I saw tasted it loved it . I found it wasn’t to sweet or rich and just a perfect dessert.
Glamah’s Butterscotch Pastry Cream
2 cups whole milk
4 large eggs yolks
1/2 cup brown sugar
3 tablespoons water
4 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons corn starch
2 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 dram butterscotch extract or 2 tablespoons Scotch for flavor

Mix brown sugar and water , over flame. Mix to dissolve and let reach a boil.Approx 2 minutes. Add the 2 cups of milk and bring to another boil. Mixture may curdle and separate but that’s OK. In a separate whisk together add egg yolks, sugar, and corn starch. Slowly temper the egg mixture into the hot milk/Brown sugar mixture . Strain to be sure any curdles bits are removed. In a heavy bottomed sauce pan whisk constantly until mixture starts to thicken and boil. ( Like the Chocolate pastry cream directions below). Remove from heat. Add butterscotch extract of Scotch and whisk in .
Pierre Hermé’s Chocolate Éclairs Recipe from Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Hermé(makes 20-24 Éclairs)•
Cream Puff Dough (see below for recipe), fresh and still warm
1) Preheat your oven to 375 degrees F (190 degrees C). Divide the oven into thirds by positioning the racks in the upper and lower half of the oven. Line two baking sheets with waxed or parchment paper.2) Fill a large pastry bag fitted with a 2/3 (2cm) plain tip nozzle with the warm cream puff dough.Pipe the dough onto the baking sheets in long, 4 to 41/2 inches (about 11 cm) chubby fingers.Leave about 2 inches (5 cm) space in between each dough strip to allow them room to puff.The dough should give you enough to pipe 20-24 éclairs.3) Slide both the baking sheets into the oven and bake for 7 minutes. After the 7 minutes, slip the handle of a wooden spoon into the door to keep in ajar. When the éclairs have been in the oven for a total of 12 minutes, rotate the sheets top to bottom and front to back. Continue baking for a further 8 minutes or until the éclairs are puffed, golden and firm. The total baking time should be approximately 20 minutes.

Notes:1) The éclairs can be kept in a cool, dry place for several hours before filling.Assembling the éclairs:•

Chocolate glaze (see below for recipe)

Chocolate pastry cream (see below for recipe)

1) Slice the éclairs horizontally, using a serrated knife and a gently sawing motion. Set aside the bottoms and place the tops on a rack over a piece of parchment paper.2) The glaze should be barely warm to the touch (between 95 – 104 degrees F or 35 – 40degrees C, as measured on an instant read thermometer). Spread the glaze over the tops of the éclairs using a metal icing spatula. Allow the tops to set and in the meantime fill the bottoms with the pastry cream.3) Pipe or spoon the pastry cream into the bottoms of the éclairs. Make sure you fill the bottoms with enough cream to mound above the pastry. Place the glazed tops onto the pastry cream and wriggle gently to settle them.
Notes:
1) If you have chilled your chocolate glaze, reheat by placing it in a bowl over simmering water,stirring it gently with a wooden spoon. Do not stir too vigorously as you do not want to create bubbles.2) The éclairs should be served as soon as they have been filled.
Pierre Hermé’s Cream Puff Dough Recipe from Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Hermé(makes 20-24 Éclairs)
• ½ cup (125g) whole milk• ½ cup (125g) water• 1 stick (4 ounces; 115g) unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces• ¼ teaspoon sugar• ¼ teaspoon salt• 1 cup (140g) all-purpose flour• 5 large eggs, at room temperature1) In a heavy bottomed medium saucepan, bring the milk, water, butter, sugar and salt to the boil.2) Once the mixture is at a rolling boil, add all of the flour at once, reduce the heat to medium and start to stir the mixture vigorously with a wooden spoon. The dough comes together very quickly. Do not worry if a slight crust forms at the bottom of the pan, it’s supposed to. You need to carry on stirring for a further 2-3 minutes to dry the dough. After this time the dough will be very soft and smooth.3) Transfer the dough into a bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or using your handmixer or if you still have the energy, continue by hand. Add the eggs one at a time,beating after each egg has been added to incorporate it into the dough.You will notice that after you have added the first egg, the dough will separate, once again do not worry. As you keep working the dough, it will come back all together again by the time you have added the third egg. In the end the dough should be thick and shiny and when lifted it should fall back into the bowl in a ribbon.4) The dough should be still warm. It is now ready to be used for the éclairs as directed above.Notes:1) Once the dough is made you need to shape it immediately.2) You can pipe the dough and the freeze it. Simply pipe the dough onto parchment-lined baking sheets and slide the sheets into the freezer. Once the dough is completely frozen, transfer the piped shapes into freezer bags. They can be kept in the freezer for up to a month.
Chocolate Pastry Cream Recipe from Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Hermé
• 2 cups (500g) whole milk• 4 large egg yolks• 6 tbsp (75g) sugar• 3 tablespoons cornstarch, sifted• 7 oz (200g) bittersweet chocolate, preferably Velrhona Guanaja, melted• 2½ tbsp (1¼ oz: 40g) unsalted butter, at room temperature1) In a small saucepan, bring the milk to a boil. In the meantime, combine the yolks, sugar and cornstarch together and whisk in a heavy‐bottomed saucepan.2) Once the milk has reached a boil, temper the yolks by whisking a couple spoonfuls of the hot milk into the yolk mixture.Continue whisking and slowly pour the rest of the milk into the tempered yolk mixture.3) Strain the mixture back into the saucepan to remove any egg that may have scrambled. Place the pan over medium heat and whisk vigorously (without stop) until the mixture returns to a boil. Keep whisking vigorously for 1 to 2 more minutes (still over medium heat).Stir in the melted chocolate and then remove the pan from the heat.4) Scrape the pastry cream into a small bowl and set it in an ice‐water bath to stop the cooking process. Make sure to continue stirring the mixture at this point so that it remains smooth.5) Once the cream has reached a temperature of 140 F remove from the ice‐water bath and stir in the butter in three or four installments. Return the cream to the ice‐water bath to continue cooling, stirring occasionally, until it has completely cooled. The cream is now ready to use or store in the fridge.
Notes:
1) The pastry cream can be made 2‐3 days in advance and stored in the refrigerator.2) In order to avoid a skin forming on the pastry cream, cover with plastic wrap pressed onto the cream.3) Tempering the eggs raises the temperature of the eggs slowly so that they do not scramble.
Chocolate Glaze Recipe from Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Hermé(makes 1 cup or 300g)
• 1/3 cup (80g) heavy cream • 3½ oz (100g) bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped• 4 tsp (20 g) unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces, at room temperature• 7 tbsp (110 g) Chocolate Sauce (recipe below), warm or at room temperature 1)In a small saucepan, bring the heavy cream to a boil. Remove from the heat and slowly begin to add the chocolate, stirring with a wooden spoon or spatula.2) Stirring gently, stir in the butter, piece by piece followed by the chocolate sauce. Notes: 1) If the chocolate glaze is too cool (i.e. not liquid enough) you may heat it briefly
 in the microwave or over a double boiler. A double boiler is basically a bowl sitting over (not touching) simmering water.2) It is best to glaze the eclairs after the glaze is made, but if you are pressed for time, you can make the glaze a couple days ahead of time, store it in the fridge and bring it up to the proper temperature (95 to 104 F) when ready to glaze.
Chocolate SauceRecipe from Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Hermé (makes 1½ cups or 525 g)
• 4½ oz (130 g) bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped • 1 cup (250 g) water• ½ cup (125 g) crème fraîche, or heavy cream • 1/3 cup (70 g) sugar 1) Place all the ingredients into a heavy‐bottomed saucepan and bring to a boil, making sure to stir constantly. Then reduce the heat to low and continue stirring with a wooden spoon until the sauce thickens.2) It may take 10‐15 minutes for the sauce to thicken, but you will know when it is done when it coats the back of your spoon.
Notes:
1) You can make this sauce ahead of time and store it in the refrigerator for two weeks. Reheat the sauce in a microwave oven or a double boiler before using.2) This sauce is also great for cakes, ice-cream and tarts.

Update

I have been awfully quiet this week. So many things are happening right now. Certain Someone returned Friday for a meeting on Saturday. He then flew back this afternoon to Sweden for work. Over 3 weeks he has been away! This weekend we were so exhausted as I had a major event to work , a funeral,and he was in his meeting.
I woke Saturday to attend my Aunt “B’s” funeral. I think we all have an Aunt B in our family tree. Not to speak ill of the dead, but a somewhat lovable, gossipy, recluse who lives with family members for all her life.Her obituary summed up her life in her devotion to her nieces and nephews as she was childless. Aunt B was something in her day and I heard many a hair raising tale.One of those old southern African American belles that was so fair she could be mistaken for white. Get the picture?Well anyway the funeral was almost comical as there were some family feuds brewing ,as is common when sides divide over care of an elderly Alzheimer stricken relative. The trouble makers who did absolutely nothing in regards to care showed up very late and combative.The following scenes played out like the final scene in the movie”. Imitation of Life”. Fannie Hurst could not have written it better. Picture the long lost favored niece arriving and throwing herself on the coffin begging for forgiveness as she just didn’t have it in her to be there for her. I felt very uncomfortable and knowing the niece as I do ,had to look into my purse to avoid laughing as she started reciting Aunt B -isms to the amazed crowd.She missed her calling for sure. The minister saved the day as he definitely picking up on the weird vibes.I have been going to way to many funerals lately but Aunt B had a very long life. If only I live so long!
I then went to work at the society event of the year in Chicago. A wedding for a heiress whose families products would be something indispensable to most Americans. To rich to comphrehend!Anyway it was spectacular all day affair I witnessed from the service side.Talk about long night. When I got home at 3pm Certain Someone was “up” on Swedish time. It didn’t make sense to adjust as he was turning right back around. Sunday we were just slugs to exhausted to move. I attempted to cook , but it wasn’t my finest hour.My marinade on the skirt steak was a little to tangy from to much lime. I didn’t even take a picture.
I just got a great new cookbook that I promise to cook from to get motivated again. La Bonne Cusine ,The Original Companion to French Home Cooking by Madame St Ange( translated by Paul Aratow). This was the book that Julia Child leaned on and was originally published in 1927. So bear with me readers.

Roasted Vegetables on Squid Ink Spaghetti

I have been a bad blogger this week. OK, I posted twice last weekend, but I have been slow in visiting others and commenting. This was an intense week at work with all my focus going towards a presentation. And I’m a wee bit lonely. Certain Someone is still in Sweden and his trip has now been extended until the end of next week. Work! On top of all that I’m not really inspired. I normally don’t mind cooking for one, but I’m just not in the mood or can think of anything blog worthy. I’m in more an artistic mood and have been working with some gum paste deigns to add to a cake, if I ever get motivated or an occasion.

Tonight I just threw this together. In that artistic frame of mind ,I was more motivated by the colors of veggies against the black squid ink pasta rather than taste. Although it was good! But who hasn’t had buttered and oiled spaghetti . Takes me back to those starving student days. I just threw in some balsamic roasted veggies for a twist. Until the next time….

An Ending And A Beginning

The past week for me had me saying goodbye to an old friend and hello to a new one. Mama Roxy’s two funerals were held on Thursday and Friday. I got to see some other long lost acquaintances. Why is that when people usually catch up its at funerals? We all had a nice lunch at Dixie Kitchen after the service. Since the repast would be on Friday out of the city, everyone and Roxanne’s family ended up there for lunch before they hit the road. It couldn’t have been orchestrated better. A nice laid back informal lunch.
On Saturday I was a guest at a Chinese Banquet to celebrate the birth of Baby K . I represented both Marc and I at this new experience for me. I tried not to over indulge that day to make room for the feast.The above symbol I was told means long life. On my way to the event I found a great kitchen store in China town. My eyes were drawn to the vegetable cutters. How fun is this! I cut the above out of a potato. I cant wait to play some more with this. I can even see me using it on cake designs.I need to revisit and get the Double Happiness symbol. I’m going to apologise for the pictures on today’s post. As I mentioned in an earlier post, Certain Someone has reclaimed his camera and I reduced to an antique digital and my Blackberry camera with flash. I cant figure out how to deactivate the flash on it. I photo shopped some pictures to make a tad better, but its still doesn’t the food justice.

These shots show 9 out of the 12 courses we had that evening. I was seated at the American table unfortunately . Because we weren’t Chinese, they felt one course of braised Pigeon would be to exotic for us. I could have ate the Pigeon. But the other people at the table were not so keen as they passed on it before at the older child’s banquet years ago. Here is a menu of what we were served:

Tea Dyed Eggs and Pickle
Assorted Chinese Cold Cuts( pork belly, beef, bean curds,
jelly fish,pork with crispy rinds,etc.)
Peking Duck ( Braised Pigeons for the other guests)
Shrimp Puffs( The best!!!!)
Chinese vegetables (mushrooms, bamboo, etc.)
Scallops and Chinese Broccoli
Steamed Lobster
Shark Fin Soup
Crispy Chicken
Noddles
Steamed Whole Fish
‘Fried Rice'( More like steamed rice with 2 types of toppings, very saucy)
Did I mention they had cake too? I could barely stand and walk after this.And there were so many kids running around and rolling about under the table I was getting antsy. But it was a joyous time . I’m not a preachy person but I think this verse sums up my week and life best.

To everything there is a season,a time for every purpose under the sun.A time to be born and a time to die;a time to plant and a time to pluck up that which is planted;a time to kill and a time to heal …a time to weep and a time to laugh;a time to mourn and a time to dance …a time to embrace and a time to refrain from embracing;a time to lose and a time to seek;a time to rend and a time to sew;a time to keep silent and a time to speak;a time to love and a time to hate;a time for war and a time for peace.
ecclesiastes 3:1-8

What Do I Look Like…Chopped Liver?

I have been meaning to do this post for a while. Maybe its to heavy for the season, but as long as the air conditioning works, why not? Also my Certain Someone is away for 2 weeks( to work on the Swedish house and then Florida for work) and he’s not a fan of chicken livers. Funny because doesn’t sausage contain all sorts of offal? However all my female family and friends love this stuff. I get countless requests for it. Mama Roxy loved it too.I don’t know if we were all iron deprived or what. I have tweaked and “glamahed” this recipe up so it doesn’t even resemble or taste like what you find in most delis. If Im lucky , I substitute goose or duck fat for chicken fat. I also cream the mixture more so than chop. And finally I drizzle some aromatic black truffle oil on top. Is it kosher , no, but its damn good!My recipe base comes from one of my favorite cookbooks. Once way before Certain Someone, I was involved on and off, with a Jewish guy. So I became fascinated with the foods and customs. Not like that vegetarian would eat what I honed in on.Anyway this book remains a favorite, The Book of Jewish Food…An Odyssey From Samakand To New York, by Claudia Roden. The book has great historical tidbits and chronicles all the different types of Jewish foods based on tribes/regions. One of my favorites are the Italian Jewish dishes. Once in New York City I was lucky to taste some old Italian Jewish recipes and it was fantastic. My dining companions who were laughing at me at first couldn’t stop reaching over to taste mine. So back to the liver. The author, Roden , Points out that that delicacy we all love ( well most of us) pate de foie gras may have Jewish origins. Come to find out,it was the Jews in the Rhineland community of Alsace that developed the way of breeding and fattening the geese by force feeding, became their trade. Force fed geese is a whole other controversy that I wont get into today. Today’s chopped liver just uses humble chicken livers, the left over garlic infused duck fat from my confit before,onions, eggs, and black truffle oil. Open your mind, mouth, and enjoy.
Chopped Liver adapted from The Book Of Jewish Food, by Claudia Roden
1 large onion chopped
3 tablespoons duck fat ( I used my leftover garlic infused confit fat, the book recommends chicken fat, and that’s more standard)
1/2 lb chicken livers
1-2 hard boiled eggs
salt
pepper
Black truffle oil

Fry the onion in the duck fat in a large pan with lid on until soft and golden. Be sure to stir occasionally.Rinse the livers and sprinkle with salt. Place the livers on a a sheet of aluminum foil and grill/cook until they change color. Turn once. Let cool.
Cut the hard boiled egg up. You can use a food processor. Add the liver and onions to the processor as well to create a coarse paste. Mix with the eggs. Salt and pepper to taste. Smooth the surface and drizzle some black truffle oil (my addition).Note I also use a immersion blender to chop all the ingredients. It works and makes a nice paste.Traditionally this is served with some chopped egg on top and with hallah or rye bread.